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A lot of 1-ton dually trucks used tow plates per the manufacturer. You know, the ring plate that goes around the wheel under the nuts to prevent the nut from pulling through with a big load in the bed or on the goose neck hitch, or some tow trucks. But that ring, or washers ain't going to help...

My 60,s cars didn't start throwing hubcaps until they got radials.

And stick a little portable floor standing a/c in the tent. Doesn't have to cool the whole thing, just the area where the works being done. Works great I tell you, great.

Your so right. My bad. I was thinking 361 from another thread.

Before the turn plates I used grease in a trash bag.

The barbeque grill stuff? I don't know, but it clogs things up pretty good.

Barbeque grill propane is some dirty dirty stuff. And not all that dirty dirty stuff in there is propane.

Whatever you do, don't use this stuff that works amazingly well I have experienced. This is a mix of propane, butane and isobutane. About $4 a can. Takes about half as much as 134. And it cools a lot better than r12, or 134, but not quite as good as straight propane. But, it works at less...

These GM style HEI distributors for the Mopar big block work smashingly well for $100.

An ammeter bypass? Sure, very popular.

Well, start collecting more parts. Anything you can get your hands on at a price (rock bottom) you like. Go to RockAuto, find your car listing, drop to the bottom of the listings and push the WHOLE SALE/CLOSE OUT button. If you haven't already done so.

That looks like a great daily driver for having the 60s Chrysler convertible driving experience. Fix the top, add and monster a/c, garage it and call it good for as long as she last. Good as your going to do, with a reasonable price adjustment. I see that thing right out of the old movies...

You are describing an occasional but complete interruption of the ignition primary system. That can be caused by a failure in the amp gauge or any wire going to or coming from it. Leave the head lights on all the time while driving and watch the amp gauge. Put a timing light on the coil output...

Those 361s are really good motors for driving. The old heads don't like unleaded gas, so new guides, seats and valves should be coming your way anyway. Removing the ridge and keeping the old pistons sounds like a good option to me. My 64 New Yorker has the standard high compression 93 premium...

Ah yes, the elusive level surface. I've resorted to shimming my garage floor to accept my turn plates. So far so good.

Hood off, car on jacks, wheels off, drain motor and trans, radiator out, fan off, chain on motor leveler on 4-intake bolts, trans cross out, pull motor and trans.

Seat belt fails. Now I'm even more nervous than I already was.

I grew tired of the bad new disc problem and the pay $50 to have a disc/drum turned problem. So, I bought a used brake lathe for $500 and have done 20 of my own disc/drums in the last year. So far so good. Without you got a lathe handy, I say take an hour and give the car some $20 eBay pads and...

Your braking description does sound like your drums are out of round. I understand your desire for disc brakes. But I also think new drums are a good option in your situation. My experience with Mopar drum brakes has been that they generally work acceptable well over a long period of time if...

Is the 400 an internally or externally balanced motor. Would it use a different flex plate and or torque converter than the 440? Probably wouldn't explain no go, but if it don't balance, that would be why.