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https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/cto/d/martinez-1956-plymouth-special/7862353679.html

Just sold my 57 Belvedere 4 door, no rust and everything worked and put in good shape. Original paint and interior so needed cosmetics but still looked great! Had the 301 V8. Got $15k cash here in Northern California.

Wow, prices have gone up on the tanks with shipping. I paid $350. about 2 years ago.

I think it was $350. shipped. The tank is fine but their service guy has become well known for being a loose cannon. I did have to buy longer special bolts to hook to the straps and tighten. I seems their tanks are a little more puffed up. It doesn't come with a pickup, just the tank and ring.

And am I asking too much? I know it's not a C body. 1957 Plymouth Belvedere for sale by owner - Petaluma, CA - craigslist

That really IS disgusting!

You could go with a brass float from Napa and modify it a little? Or a similar size carburetor float?

Update: I bypassed the booster and viola! the brakes don't drag or get hot. Vibration is still there which is probably somewhere at either end of the drive shaft or emergency brake drum. As I stated before, my car didn't have optional power brakes, someone added the booster. Here's an example...

The after market Bendix brake booster is a separately mounted unit on the fender well and has the brake lines in and out attached to it so there must be some sort of helper piston in there? After checking everything else I'll bypass it altogether.

Thanks Jakter, Since I got the car and because of this brake/vibration issue I've replaced the master cylinder, wheel cylinder on the problem side, and the rubber brake line at the drivers side rear axle that feeds both wheels. An early problem was that the rear brakes especially the drivers...

Yes, gear oil changed. I'll look again at the springs. Hoping the bearing isn't pressed on.

I was able to do your test today. FYI, the rear drums were just machined and the brake shoes are new but not arced. I've adjusted them to their loosest point and they were reasonably free spinning. I figure I'll just keep putting miles on them to break them in. I drove around town quite a bit...

I think I read that THAT additive was not to be used on a non-lockup like mine.

I think I made that better by installing larger main jets with the same rods. Has more power too.

I thought mine wasn't a lockup?

FYI, for anyone changing trans fluid that there are TWO drain plugs on the convertor. I assumed ONE but just read that there are TWO. Dammit!!

No, not totally. When I did the test the drivers rear wheel (drive wheel?) was making a noise and I wasn't sure if it's normal when the wheels are off the ground and no stress on them? Also, I can't tell if it's the front or rear drums but they pulsate INTERMITTENTLY and the rear drums were...

Dare I say the replacing of the 8 out of 11 qts of trans fluid may have done the trick! I'll be driving it several more times to confirm but I think we're onto it! If nothing else it has reduced the vibration considerably.

Thanks Lefty. I'm going to replace the oil and move backwards. The engine I've been forwards and backwards on if you see my previous posts. But if it is the engine or the transmission I think done and the next owner can deal with it. Some riders won't notice it but I can feel it in the...