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A Lars model 220 is the rag replacement joint you need. Will fit perfectly.

A 60-to-80-ton press seems like a lot on till you start pressing Dana 60-70 series bearings. Of Course, the shop I retired from we pressed on bearings for a wide variety of applications. The extra capacity really helped on those stubborn bearing removals.

Its not the removal that requires the greatest pressure. You can stress relieve the old inner race and retainer on removal It's the required force to press the tapered bearing and retainer on.

Indianapolis area the cost of pressing axle bearings each will run you anywhere from 75 to $100. Unfortunately the type of pressure you will need to press axle bearings and the car that will go on on top of it requires about 60 to 80 ton capacity. Those hydraulic presses cost upwards of 1200 to...

As far as the reconditioning of the brake booster I recommend Booster Dewey in Portland Or. They do very high quality brake booster reconditioning.

Here is another rustoleum option with the other benefit of being heat resistant. Has been on my own road wheels since 2017 with no flaking or peeling.

Stay away from Cardon, I agree w/ @mrfury68 and getting them warranted is even worst. You can rebuild your own w/ 1973 Dodge Challenger parts. See @Ayliar post on his Introducing a 1970 300 TNT convertible thread for details on how to rebuild it.

If you look at the bleeder screws both calipers are from the side. The actual mechanics and dimensions of the seals, caliper piston, Caliper pin hardware and dust boot are the same. I used the Challenger Calipers as a doner for seals, pistons and mounting hardware for the 70 300 calipers.

Here you are. The guide pins are identical in length. The caliper to the left is a 1973 Challender while the caliper to the right is a 70 Chrysler 300. The Challenger guidepins are shown installed in photo #3

FYI the caliper hardware for these calipers are the same as 1973 Dodge Challenger for calipers. See @ayilar post @Introducing a my 70 TNT convertible.

Here are the pics to go w/ pic in post #3 & post 10

Those calipers pictures are in fact the original style OE calipers used on c bodies in 1970. The relief cut that you're seen in the photos in is the retainer silencer has worn into the caliper housing. This style caliper housing was used from 1970 till the end of the fuselage model run in 73...

If the bleeder screw on top you go it spot on

I am for the white wall look. For me the white wall accents the body lines.

Type in Murry B Park in your google search. He is located in Tiffin Ohio. He will have what you need.

Here is some helpful info as far as shock absorbers go you are correct about the part number for the KYB front shocks. However for the rears you need to look no further than a 1970 Dodge Charger rear shocks the compressed length and the extended blink have those shocks are exactly the same as...

O'Rielly Auto parts carries one part # K1007 confirmed today.

Wagner new is the way to fly. Have had no problems w/ them.

I just installed KYB's on last month. The ride does stiffen a little w/ them. For ease of front shock installation remove the tire and wheel. Support the lower control arm w/ a floor jack and remove the bolt securing the brake line to the body. Separate the upper ball joint and lower the lower...

WalMart is where I got my 235R/75/15 H724 Optimo tires. I just checked and they do have 4 in stock. Here is a source you can use. I confirmed this just a few minutes ago.