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It looks great.

No. With my luck, I'd have to go buy a new hood after I was done repairing the engine. :stop:

We were all rooting for you. I was afraid you were gonna tell us you just put $10K into rebuilding a beautiful motor and put it into your car, only to find out it's a marine engine lol.

Yep.... been there. I really wanted this, a year ago, still no stock; Mopar 8 3/4" (8.75) Eaton Truetrac Differential I settled for this, so far happy, and I've not heard complaints from others. $595.00.... a lot more than you are talking, yet not $800-1,000 either, and IN-STOCK; Mopar 8 3/4"...

This is the pan I used for big block A-bodies too. They come up for sale often too. The OP should not have a problem locating one. I think Mancini still has the std 5 quart pickup that should be a perfect match for it.

Most likely came here for "ammo" and did'nt find much.... then moved on.

Depends on the condition of the trunk floor, I would guess. :poke:

Worst pix ever lol. Nylon would only be the cam gear... nylon over aluminum, IIRC. If the chain isn't flopping around, why worry?? I would think most OEM cam gears would have surely self destructed from the heat/cool cycles by now???

I have not. In case you are trying to build with them, the proper method is the .100 down fill volume method. You can mathmatically figure your bore x .100. ( pi x 1/2 bore squared x .100) Then mock up the piston .100 in the hole, seal the edges with grease and use a liquid filled burette to...

Moser sells complete assemblys, but thats a lot of cash to spend. Looks like your on the right track to a proper repair.

Then you have a bent axle or housing or something.... Someone needs to take a hard look at that assembly.

If your rear has been rebuilt four times and the axle seals still need replacing, then you need four new mechanics!! Your pix look like the hot gear oil has broken down the axle grease and spit it all over the brakes. X2 on checking the axle housing vent. Good Luck, Lefty71

I bought the helical one Dr Diff has last year for the '64 Belvy. It works great...no complaints. I had originally wanted a Detroit Locker but could not find anywhere at that time. Unfortunatly, i have not managed to compile enough time behind the wheel or miles on the car since last summer...

I believe it would...funny how specs can be hard to find on brand new stuff.... The only critical dimensions for you are the c-c to the bolt mounts and the throat bores for the carb. Since you already know those dimensions if you have the manifold in hand, a quick call to Edelbrock before you...

The progression of manifolds in stock form is really about the carb used more than flow. The 2806301 you mentioned may be nearly the best, if not the best flowing iron factory intake they made for 1-4bbl. It was used in the late '60's on 383HP engines. But since there is a progression from...

I don't care what anyone says, there's more to that story than just the fluid.... my two cents. Type "F" has less additives, not less lubrication.

It is a 1972 vintage A-904 for a 318 engine, early standard duty unit. Your trans was the 35th unit built on November 26th, 1971 for the 1972 model year. I don't think you'll have any issue running a Dextron/Mercon trans fluid. Type "F" would be best, IMO.

Try King bearings??

You will be revisiting that one. If possible compare to the old joint next time you have it apart. Did it leak there (the reason for replacement) or was there another problem with the old hose??

Honestly. I'm wondering if you were'nt driving it with a blown head gasket, diluting the oil with coolant into the bottom end. If that's the case, you and you alone would be responsible for stopping the engine before further damage. Sounds like you should pay your mechanic.... I cant see...