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  1. jmustian

    Electrical opinion

    I'm only bypassing the two burnt spots/wires into a new fuse box. My alternator and regulator are both new from napa but the reg has flat blade connectors so it's probably the old style.
  2. jmustian

    Electrical opinion

    Another thought about electrics since I believe you know more than me on that haha. If I can't make my AT1 system work, where would I hook a wire and or switch to run the fan motor? Through the fan relay? I think direct to battery may cause problems.
  3. jmustian

    Special wire terminals

    Same as window switches
  4. jmustian

    Electrical opinion

    Decided to repair what I can and bought a 6 blade box to run those two burnt wires through. Leaves me 4 more post for USB and gauges.
  5. jmustian

    Electrical opinion

    I think I'll go that route. I can take one connector at a time from the bulkhead and work on that circuit. I probably won't remove the harness but check each wire from end to end. I'm going to try and clean the fuse box first and see if I can repair the burnt bulkhead connectors. If not they...
  6. jmustian

    Electrical opinion

    I wonder how bad it would be to update to a modern fuse box instead of fixing this mess. Most of the 69 300 parts seem to be different and rarer than the 68 and 70. Not sure why the changes
  7. jmustian

    Electrical opinion

    Well couldn't find a fuse box connector yet. Fuse box looks good but connector on back has couple burnt ,melted connectors. Might can repair them.
  8. jmustian

    Electrical opinion

    My fsm does not say what size fusible link I should have which isn't there.do you know?
  9. jmustian

    Electrical opinion

    Guess that's the next route. Fuse box is melted at Alt and starter, so have to replace box. Here's a pic of battery and relay where I was cleaning up wiring. Battery has 3 wires instead of 1 and relay has extra wiring at double feed.
  10. jmustian

    Electrical opinion

    Ticked again but lights quit. One feed dead. Neutral switch dead, one feed dead. Temp light switch stuck in cold, regardless of new switch and wire seems ok. Numerous other ground issues. Fuse box was burnt out on starter circuit and alternator circuit so both have been bypassed. Checked...
  11. jmustian

    Electrical opinion

    I think I fixed the issue. Poor dash ground. But I ran out of gas hahaha
  12. jmustian

    Electrical opinion

    Same as instructions stated.
  13. jmustian

    Electrical opinion

    I didn't take the volt regulator off the dash. I hooked directly into wiring from float to gauge.
  14. jmustian

    Electrical opinion

    Gas guage goes up while driving and down while idling. Dash resistor? Gas gauge? ground issue? New sender, new meter match.
  15. jmustian

    Mopar-related images

    Wish we had a menards
  16. jmustian

    AT system

    Thanks. I've replaced most sensors and controls and rebuilt the AC compressor and put in a new fan. My thoughts appear to be the main controller. I'll be working on it this winter. If I can't make it work, I'm gonna try and create something to bypass that controller. Probably a waste of...
  17. jmustian

    AT system

    Does anyone know offhand if the 70 New Yorker had the same auto temp as the 69 300. I have a new Yorker available for parts from a friend if the parts are the same, specifically the control box in the kick panel. I haven't seen it yet to know if the temp rheostat is the same.
  18. jmustian

    1969 300 rocker molding clips

    Thanks. I have the resin and stuff and only 1 good one so I'm gonna give it a try haha
  19. jmustian

    1969 300 rocker molding clips

    Mine have a different pattern. I can find hundreds for dodge pick ups but they're too big . These are 3.24 x 1.3.
  20. jmustian

    69 300 convertible

    Resins
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