Separate names with a comma.
John - if you go, take me! I am in Auburn often.
But, its not always about the OP direct question and answer. It can add to the knowledge base. So if someone else chimes in now and helps, this...
I have found it helpful on a forum like this to continue threads. Even if there is a long pause.
Now the Tesla forum, where product changes every...
ok, so no lower ball joints for us- correct?
I just checked for a '68 300 and no lower BJ. Would it be different for the 300?
I have found that having two people is better. One person uses an impact wrench on the tension bolt (screw in then screw out multiple times) while...
Yes, I do have a FSM. And yes, the diameters are in there. I did not see them before. Thanks.
Thanks for the input all.
umm. not sure what to do here. Go to the heavier bar? Sounds like the police version was even heavier, so I guess the .985 should be ok.
They are .960, so I guess all I have to do is match that diameter.
So, the part numbers do not matter. Just the length and diameter?
Mr. Fix It (member) has some used torsion bars for me, but we are not sure if they will swap.
Mine is for a '68 300 w/440
His are from a 73...
I don't know what you mean by the floor, but yes the frame has rot. It is going to be replaced.
It was pure will against evil:
Using acetone and penetrant did not work (even lighting acetone on fire did not work) The OEM tool did not work....
When I pry on the LCA, it actually flexes the rear frame cross-over. My lever is 4 feet long.
NOPE! I may have to cut the TB. It's not moving.
It is unbolted. No go.
I have read through a few of the "torsion" bar threads on how to remove stubborn bars, but I have a real stubborn one. The stub frame is out of...
That part of the frame is OK. But not this part. I am still trying to figure out if I should cut and replace or get a whole new stub frame....