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AcreageAircooled the main difference is how the master cylinder attaches... on the Midland-Ross there's a plate that goes between the M/C and booster that creates a seal for the inner boot when you tighten down the M/C nuts. Also the rod that goes between the M/C and booster is different.

bump still up for sale...

Ahh seriously don't tempt me lol... every mile I put on this car after finishing it just makes me fall in love with it more. I wish so badly I could keep it but the money I get from this will go towards finally swapping an 8 3/4 rear into my Duster which I've been wanting to do for a couple...

So here we go... after spending the last 5 months fixing up this beast of a C-body I'm hoping to get it to a new home where it will be enjoyed and appreciated for what it is. First off I have a general rebuild thread here...

Well replaced the t-stat and took it for a spin, temp gauge stayed around 1/3 up where it ought to be... Engine runs better too from not being so hot. Just need to get the choke hooked up properly and it will be good enough to drive every day. 70bigblockdodge the car has a factory-style (but...

Drove the car about 10 miles yesterday to my actual home and noticed it was running kinda hot, also when I arrived it seemed to be misfiring a bit but it was hard to tell. Am I correct in that the temp gauge should always stay below 1/2, more around 1/3 up from the cold side? It was running a...

I like what I'm hearing lol sounds like I need to get some videos going with driving and some Super-Lite action. I agree 70NPORT this is a very unique car, C-bodies pop up from time to time on Colorado CL and the most popular are either original-condition (usually not very nice) '70s 4-doors or...

This is made by Breckenridge Brewery in Breckenridge, CO just a couple hours from where I live... not that I drink beer but friends and such have bought it before. Never seen the '72 Imperial kind though that's bada$$

OK thanks for the tip I'll be patient then ha...

Hey guys just thought I'd update, after 4 months of work overhauling the engine, rebuilding front suspension, all new brakes, etc. the beast is finally 100% road-ready! The car has come a long way since when I got it; it ran but definitely wasn't safe to drive. I first pulled the front...

bump... so no interest? I think the price is reasonable anyone disagree?

Hey guys just wanted to update... The car is completely back together, in fact today I just went and got the alignment done. I added a 1" plastic 4-hole carb spacer for extra torque and a new reproduction "unsilenced" air cleaner from Mancini. The car drives fantastic, that 383 sounds...

I bought this power brake booster off RockAuto.com for my '69 Polara to replace the worn out one in the car; unfortunately I didn't realize until after I took off the old one (after return period) that it doesn't interchange with my Bendix unit. This is a Centric remanufactured unit (NOT A-1...

Just thought I'd share some pics of the 383 4-bbl out of my '69 Polara I recently "overhauled" (new gaskets, timing set, cleaned/painted). The odometer says 99k miles and judging from how the inside of the engine looked I assume it hasn't rolled over... Here's pulling the engine, good friend...

So I'm assuming no one else has run into this...? I'm thinking of just making a rod but I'd like to know some dimensions at least. I suppose I could try to measure it with my dial calipers...

OK guys it's been a while but I got the new power brake booster in and bolted to the firewall and brake pedal. Only issue now is that the pushrod going from the booster to the master cylinder seems to be different; the old one has a large end that looks like a piston on one end with a small...

OK I left them a message a few days ago, also called yesterday and no response. In the meantime I have found some sites with the pieces for other bodies, anyone know if B-body ones fit? They look the most similar in the pictures at least...

My '69 polara 2-door has messed up windows; the glass seems to have fallen off the little round pieces that slide along the tracks. Where can I find these, I don't even know what they're called lol...

FSM specs get thrown out the window running modern tires... You could use a lot more positive caster and slight negative camber than the FSM says, it will have MUCH better road feel.

Sorry for the lack of pics I will try to remember when I get back to work on the car this time... When I work on cars I tend to get "in the zone" and forget about things like taking pictures, not to mention I hate dirtying up my smart phone with my grimy hands lol. What do you want to see pics...