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I used same. After 3 years I did have to touch it up in a few places where pin pricks of rust came thru. I used wire wheel to prep.

Hi Pete. What prep and clean up did you do beforehand?

Like I say, I haven't had a problem, but I have no way to know at what rpm mine actually flashes. What torque converter do you recommend and why? Thanks

I used a Hughes torque converter behind the 440 in my 1970 Fury convertible. Acceleration and Performance have been excellent. Bigger Flex plate to torque converter bolts at 7/16" thread allow greater torque on the flex plate. I torqued mine at 40'lbs. Much less chance of a loose flex plate...

I have used Magnaflow mufflers on a 440, dual exhaust. I liked the sound. Not super loud. You could add the glass packs later, if necessary.

With a 360, long ago, I used exhaust manifold gaskets. NAPA MS2268 gaskets, installed with 25-30’lbs torque. 1967 Power Wagon. It was a great running truck. My thought was that the gaskets compensated for heat warpage of the manifolds that would otherwise create small leaks that would damage...

With 8.2:1 compression ratio, you may not want to risk scavenging the cylinders by using headers. On the other hand, your car, glad you're keeping a C – body on the road!

Good Onya! Black spark plug electrodes are a bad sign. OTOH, they point you in the right direction: rich mixture.

High UNIX so are the spark plug electrodes covered with black soot? Or is the engine oil turning black quickly after an oil change? Either of these would indicate a running rich condition that would destroy the new catalytic converters. It’s not a bad idea to minimize pollution. If neither...

So can you go to a Chrysler dealer in Germany and buy a RAM pickup?

The first number is the part # Casting number is what you see on the manifold.

Excellent point! Thanks.

B-body also works on c-body pass side. A-body don't think so. Driver side is c-body only 69 HP manifold #2806898 R casting # 2806900 1967-1969 69 HP manifold #2863408 L casting # 2803409 also correct for 1968

Pipes can be tricky to seal at bottom of exhaust manifold. Sandpaper to eliminate rough spots sometimes helps. Love your 70 Fury convertible (for obvious reasons):lol: Mine

I agree that you don't need a torque shaft assembly. I used a TTI 2.5inch with HP manifolds in my 1970 440 Fury. Everything fit OK except driver side over axle hanger. They sent 2 and neither fit. Had to fabricate. Also, rear of tailpipes needed to be outside the subframe, not inside.

For fuselage convertible owners: I used TTI 2.5" dual exhaust with H-pipe. Right side: pipes and hangers were perfect. Left side: TTI sent the wrong over-axle hanger twice and stopped returning my calls. I had to use 2 bolts and make my own. Also, I had to add a hanger under the rear seat...

Weird story: I had a car recently, where someone had used too much starter fluid or had a really bad tuning job. But the muffler outer housing was blown open, like an open clam shell facing the outside of the car. The car was missing and running terribly and had starting problems. Replaced...

Car: What year and model? Shims: did you cut the heads for more compression?

Glad you fixed it. Hope that fixed your relationship with the car. My front pipes are a little low. I wish they were tighter against the body at the torsion bar cross member. Still, I don't think they are hitting the torsion bars. Relief!