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I'll just say tight's tight. Too tight's broke.

Well at least you know it's not driven much. Those 90 degree welds on the heater pipes aren't long for the world.

Sweet they'll be about a mile and a half from my house when they come to Muscle Car City.. Always wanted to see a dog and pony show.

Forest fuggin green metallic.

Ok so you have your answer.

It should sit flush with the body when compressed.

Bleader towards the top.

the one you have on the car is upside down. as for the one in your hand, just compress the piston and you'll be fine.

Well the mid 60's stuff is the most important.... :P

Thought most the numbers were lost in a fire. Not correct?

I loves it.

They were essentially two year only and not a lot of cars got them. SO, you have rarity and scarcity to contend with. The calipers, rotors and pads could also be sourced from Imperial. But you're still in the same boat.

All I can say is stay away from Cardone BUDD calipers. Check out Rockauto for parts. Rotors on Ebay, $299.00 each.

Ill just say that the Cardone calipers were the last straw for me and why I machined caliper brackets and went with Wilwood. Im sure others have positive experiences but the ones I bought wouldnt stop leaking. Cardone wouldn't send out new seals. They wanted the caliper back and they'd either...

You can get a 35" tire in the trunk.

Oy. The rotor to hub is always 5 x 4.5. The hub to wheel is 5x4.5 for C-body and 5x5 for Imperial. The rotor is the same.

Shouldn't, the rotor to Hub should all be 5x4.5. The hub itself should be 5x5 on the imperial.

Those are B-body. $200 a pop. 1966-1969 Chrysler Imperial (C-body) Brake Rotor New for Budd 4 Piston Calipers | eBay

Shape and size i believe.

F bomb could help...