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Somethings not right there. That spade terminal shouldn't be bent over and touching the ring that circles the nut. That's gonna ground out and blow the horn constantly. Also there's quite a kink in the black wire, I'm sure it's fine but it shouldn't be like that.

The driver for isn't open with your foot dangling out is it? :poke: Most of the map lights come on when one of the doors are open, or you can turn it on manually while driving and the doors are closed. Sometimes you can eliminate the simple things first. Then look to the map light switch...

Guess I never needed to replace one in my 40+ years of owning dozens of Mopars. Good info to know though, thanks.:thumbsup:

Using it for what?

I have no Friggin' idea of what you are talking about...:rofl:

My '78's snap open, you better do some maintenance on that motor before it cooks.

All the original hemi engines in the fifties had dual point setups. I thought I read somewhere it was to have the plug fire for a longer period time to make sure all the fuel mixture was burned for better efficiency and power. Just like some race engines had dual distributors and dual plugs.

It's been my experience that a coil will produce what the plug needs. Most plugs gapped at .030 will fire at 5-8k at idle, around 15k at higher speeds. You can have a 250k coil but if it only requires 8-15k to fire the plug that's all you're gonna get. You want more volts? Open the gap up.

:p

Not to brag.... but my '78 still has a perfect Thermo Guard on it. :poke:

Don't forget the main power line that runs through the Ammeter. Very popular problem just ask John @live4theking

My wiring is fine. My headlights work fine as they did 40 and 50 years ago. I don't drive my classics that much in the dark anymore to go through all this hassle. They are not daily drivers, and your still drawing the same amps to fire the bulbs, just rerouting it.. Plain and simple. Your...

I've got a real good solution to all this.... don't drive at night and if you do make like it's 1967. That's what I do. If it ain't broke don't fix it. Your still running the same amps regardless to the bulbs. Just pushing it thru a different way. You may be making it easier on the switch and...

The pics looked like it was... Maybe I'm wrong. Been wrong before and will be again I'm sure.

Sorry.... but you still have issues... just sayin'

Nice work! Just don't change the crank diameter. That will affect your power steering pump speed and your water pump speeds. Those may overspeed as well.

Almost every one of my cars at idle puts out at minimum 14 volts at idle. My MGB and Elite both need a boot in the ***, as in a blip of the throttle, to get it to go but after that they're fine till I shut 'em off. Lucas... LOL My '67 Imperial will start to flutter a bit after a long light with...

It's not a matter of spinning... it's output. You can spin that fucker a million rpm... if it's rated at 60 amps that's all you're gonna get no matter how fast it spins. :rofl: You're drawing way too much from the battery and that little fucker can't keep up. You need 130 A to run all your gear...

Have you tried starting it in neutral.

:rofl: