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About 1/3rd of new condensers made in china are defective right out of the box. This is what you will get at Auto-bone or Car-crap. You are probably better off with sourcing new old stock US made units. Other suppliers, such as O'Reilly's have ones made in Mexico which are a lot better than...

You will need to remove the sender to test it as you will need to move the float thru several positions to check the resistance. Specs are in the FSM available for free download at www.mymopar.com. Dave

Mopar Mall has it listed on their web site (www.moparmall.com) you will need to type that web address outside of for c bodies web site. Dave

Run a test light from the lead to the tank sending unit, have the lead disconnected from the tank unit. With the test light grounded and the probe hooked to the lead, you should get a flashing light with the key on. If the light flashes, the circuit to the tank is good. Next culprit is going...

The ground strap runs from the fuel line to the sending unit. This insures a proper ground to the sending unit because the rubber gasket on the sending unit is a non conductor and can prevent a proper ground. The lack of a proper ground will cause the sending unit to have an open circuit and...

You might try running a test light to blower motor connection. If the test light goes out when the blower stops running, the problem is someplace else. Dave

The two problems are unrelated. Run a test light from the connector to the tank unit to a good ground, do this with the lead disconnected from the tank unit. With the key on, you should get a blinking test light. If this does not happen, most likely the cluster voltage regulator is bad or the...

It sounds like the circuit is heating up and going open due to high resistance someplace. Check the fuse connectors for rust. If that is ok, take a voltmeter and check the blower switch for high resistance. Dave

Go to a u-pull it yard and pull one off a junker. It will outlast any of the junk made in China which is what you get at Auto-Bone or Car-Crap. For your own piece of mind, grab a second used one for a spare. Carter still makes quality pumps and they are readily available. Might also contact...

Could also be a bad ground to the cluster. Try grounding the cluster with some alligator clips to see of the light works normally. Dave

Both the voltage regulator and the ECM can fry themselves if a negative battery cable is removed with the car running. A bad ground to either unit can do the same thing. Dave

Buy a new plug. Probably melted the wire at the burnt connector. Dave

This type of strap was used from 1962 to 1976 on most mopars. Dave

Remove the panel dimmer switch, then solder a wire on each end of the variable resistance coil. This bypasses the resistance portion and gives full power to the lighting. Reinstall the panel dimmer switch to the instrument cluster and be sure that the wire you installed does not touch anything...

You should use a voltage regulator that is rated at 60 amps. Since you already have a new unit installed, use it until if fails as you would rarely draw a 60 amp charge. I would keep a heavier unit as a spare just in case...Or you could install the heavier unit and keep the other as a spare...

What year car and which voltage regulator are you using? If this is the '67 in you moniker, the '67 regulator probably will not work with with an after market alternator. Check that you are getting power to the alternator field. You are correct that one of the field wires is hokled to ground...

Once you get the cluster reinstalled and hooked up, you can turn the key to the "on" position and use a test light to the connector that hooks to the tank sending unit. Do this with the connector unhooked from the tank unit. You should get a flashing test light if everything is working as it...

Another thing you might want to check is the condenser on the back of the fuel gauge. This is for static suppression on the radio equipped cars. That condenser is now over 60 years old and may be shorted out. That will throw off the voltage to the gauges. Dave

The '65 Plymouith cluster regulator is integral to the gas gauge. If it is bad you will need to replace the whole unit or hard wire an aftermarket VCR to the existing circuit. There are some posts on this website that show how to do this. Suggest you download the wiring diagram from...

Could also be a bad ground to the instrument cluster. Try running a temp ground with some alligator clips to the cluster to see if the readings change. Dave