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You will get a little more power and a little better fuel mileage with a clutch fan. This is because the clutch fan will disengage until the temperature of the air going thru the radiator goes up enough to lock the thermostatic clutch. You should do some measuring to be sure the 26" radiator...

These seals will leak if the gas pressure drops from normal operating ranges. Gas pressure against the back side of the seal along with a thin film of oil is what creates a gas tight and oil tight seal. You probably still have a good seal if the system has retained pressure. You can remove...

FSM = Field Service Manual Dave

Looks to be complete to me. Dave

There are usually rebuilt, used and core compressor units for sale on E-bay. U-pull it is another source. O'Reily's still shows a listing for rebuilt units but I do not know the availability of their units. Dave

The main reason to install the EPR valve in place of the ETR valve was to protect the compressor from slugging liquid refrigerant and beating itself to death. As noted, this disabled all of the thermostatic controls. You can install a cycling switch wired to the clutch that measures...

Ranco makes a good valve. If factory appearance is your goal, go with a factory unit. Be advised many of the NOS factory valves are reproductions made in China, so that is something to consider. Dave

If you have nothing, no movement of the air doors, no A/C clutch engagement etc. You may have a bad actuator or a bad vacuum switch on the auto temp control. Check the vacuum line to the auto temp switch to see if vacuum is getting that far. If you have vacuum there without any leakage from...

You can use that port by removing the plug. Extra hole was for a ported vacuum switch that was temperature sensitive on some applications. Dave

The ETR valve was unreliable and that part has been obsolete for 30 years or more. A lot of them were removed as they usually stuck shut and rendered the A/C inoperative. As a fix, some systems had a EPR valve installed to prevent compressor hammering, the A/C would work that way, but that fix...

The ETR valve is normally in the same place as the EPR valve on non ATC systems. Yours would appear to have been removed. It would usually have a 12v lead to the valve, I see a 12 volt connector in the photo on the right side of the compressor but that might be to the compressor clutch...

The system will still work with the EPR installed, R-134a is a less dense refrigerant so the system will be less efficient with that restriction in the line. You should not need anything other than the expansion valve to regulate the system with R-134a. In a perfect world, you could replace...

The recommended oil for a conversion from R-12 to R-134a on an RV-2 compressor is PAG100. This is the proper viscosity and has the proper additives to prevent gelling of any mineral oil that might still be in the system. As part of any R-134a conversion, the factory o-rings should be replaced...

If the system has R-134a adapters installed, part of a proper conversion, you can probably assume that it also has the proper oil (usually PAG oil) installed. If the system was completely rebuilt or flushed,it could also have Ester oil installed. If the system still has the R-12 adapters...

I just had the radiator re-cored on my '64 Chrysler. Not cheap, it will run about $800 for the correct brass core with the labor. I still prefer to keep the brass as they hold up better. Dave

Ester based oil will work for both R-12 and R-134a. Ideally, as noted, the system should be flushed to get rid of any gunked up, contaminated oil. The Ester based oil is non reactive with most common refrigerants such as R-12 or R-134a. If you are going to disassemble the system, replace all...

You probably have a bad vacuum switch in the heater/AC control. The other possibility is that the vacuum port from the manifold connection is plugged. The control draws vacuum from a small branch fitting below the connection for the power brake booster. Try removing the vacuum line from this...

Try www.oldairproducts.com, they rebuild your core. Usually runs in the $200 range whcih in my view is on the high side. Napa used to make a rebuild kit, but I do not know if those are still available. Dave

The heater core is hot with water flow all the time, the damper cuts off the air flows so that heat is not transferred to the interior of the car. Dave

the '66 3383 2BBL usually ran a four blade fan with the 22" radiator and no A/C. That should work fine as long as the radiator is in good shape. These days a re-core job with the correct brass radiator runs about $800. Dave