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The reason your Datona "lived" is that it had a rotary vane style compressor rather that than a piston type. Makes a big difference because the rotary compressor are a lot more forgiving. Dave

R-12 dual evaporator units will usually fail if you convert them to R-134a. It is really difficult to get all of the mineral type oil out of a dual unit R-12 system prior to converting to R-134a. Any oil left in the system will turn into a jelly like snot that will not circulate and the system...

Yes they used build sheets in '65. Most of them were under the rear seat springs on the top half of the seat, PIA to get at. Might also check the top of the glove box, taped to the outside. Dave

The engine says "leaf me alone" Dave

The decal job looks to be close to period correct. That having been said, it would be up to the seller to document the authenticity of the car. Most of the promo cars would have had the specialty decals removed prior to sale. Dave

Take a propane torch and lightly heat the nut on the connecting fitting, that will prevent the line from getting twisted as the nut is threaded loose. Dave

Also save the rear seat A/C controls and the brackets to mount the lines going to the rear unit. That stuff is all hard to find. Dave

How many critters did you find? Dave

That is a windlace. SMS auto fabrics has most colors and patterns. Dave

Then the second line goes to the heater valve, which is not part of the heater core assembly. See post above by polara 500. Dave

Do you have a rear seat heater? Dave

The line might be available as part of the package conversion. R-12 lines had barbed fittings on the ends to hold the hose in place, these sometime leak when running R-134a because the gas molecule is smaller, so if you need to make up a new hose, the modern standard for R-123a is ribbed...

The open A/C system is going to cause you no end of trouble. Left open to the elements, the remaining oil in the system gets contaminated with water vapor from the air and the oil turns to jello. It probably will be necessary to remove the evaporator and condenser and have them flushed to...

There is a small stud or screw mount on the shift collar that the indicator is mounted to, it is a small metal wand. Check to see if its is still attached to the collar, if so it usually can be straightened back out. This should be removed before the column is dropped. If the wand is broken...

Try www.jimsautoparts.com Should be able to access the steering components in the restoration section. Dave

www.jimsautoparts.com/steering-parts.htm has the correct C-Body replacement. Dave

Nice patina, must have been sitting there twenty years or more. Dave

Usually when that happens, the tail shaft drops out onto the street and the car starts doing the proverbial "Bunny Hop", can be much more destructive, so count your self lucky. A practical demonstration of the need to check u-joint condition from time to time. Dave

Given that this is a wagon, ground strap disconnect is very unlikely, but Xenon is correct, that should be checked also. Dave

You can disconnect the lead from the sending unit and hook it to ground with alligator clips. Briefly turn the key on to see if the gauge moves. If the gauge moves, the sending unit or the float is defective. If the gauge does not move, most likely your cluster regulator is bad. As noted, if...