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Yes, the switches differ quite a bit between 65-66 and 67-68. MY big reason for craving the 3 speed motor is the sort of insipid drizzle we get here most of the time. I have the 3 speed toggle switch, along with a spare dash for my '68, which is a blessing, to be SURE! Having the switch and...

THANK YOU MATT!! Yes, let us check these details out. I'll look in my catalogues too. I suspect they're 1:1 compatible, BUT, YOU MAY BE RIGHT! The slabs were pretty good for compatibility across the 4 yrs, though there are SOME exceptions. Wiring harness stuff is trivial, but that link bar...

DONE!!! Will work out details tomorrow Chris. PACK IT UP MAN!

Living in Toostoned AZ means long stretches of DRY weather, oft interrupted by the lightest drizzle and no more. For this kind of muddy, light blatter, a 2 speed wiper motor does about as much harm as good. We need a SLOOOOOW low speed here. I have a spare 3 speed switch. which is of good...

Was thinking just so myself. Reckon I'll look into that. The little A body pump we have was RTVed but it worked for about 4 yrs after we got the car before any signs of failing showed. It still will drive that steering gear somewhat I reckon. The pump ON the car doesn't leak, but is seizing...

Right on. I actually found ONE correct one for that 68 Newport down in our locker this afternoon. It came w the car, pumps, but pours out thge fluid FAR too rapidly to be of use. Still, with that one core, I can send it to Lares and satisfy their $500 core charge, which certainly beats paying...

Greetings to the Part Rich Moparians! If any of you folks have one of these older, larger TRW power steering pumps with the big (5/8") return hose port, and want to part with one, we're pretty interested in buying. We need a spare to enable us to switch one in while getting the other rebuilt...

While I'm putting together a rebuild project for one of my B blocks, it sure wouldn't be bad to cop a decent runner to have ready to drop in if the 383 we're now using should require quick major surgery. After 6 years, this probability has grown enough to warrant such concern. If somebody has...

That makes GOOD sense! The deposits of SOME mineral inside the sheetmetal certainly came from a non-ferrous source. Think I'll use a good plastic battery box up front to eliminate that source of grief. I'm pretty happy with the material I've put together to repair that corner. Channel strut...

I well might have to replace the whole thing then, despite the relatively confined nature of the corrosion. For now, I think I can brace the rotten corner with 2.5" square steel tubing of 1/8" steel. (Thought at first it was 3/16" but after cleaning it up a little on the ends, I re-measured...

That looks very close to my 66.

Right, the front driver side frame rail and transmission crossmember are the only parts of the stub frame compromised, as far as I can tell. Pity is that is just the rearmost 24" of the rail and the left corner of the X-member.

++COOL!

Those are nice looking rear rails, but what I need is that front driver side one and probably a transmission cross member with it. I think I can contrive a good short term fix for mine, but am keeping eyes open for good sheetmetal on this from now on. Muchas gracias, Gerald

Goodyear is definitely closer than Ak/Ok! Sure, ask your buddy. I've worked in Goodyear. Ask him about the rear crossmember too. That's as badly eroded as the frame rail. Many Thanks, Gerald

This most generous offer I can't take, simply because of logistics. Pity too, as there are indeed QUITE a few good looking bits visible in the pics you've posted, but I haven't the means to get to the Ak/Ok border on I-40 for now. Having now poked extensively over my frame rails with a sharp...

VERY odd, but since the car first got sold in Indiana, I figure the initial corrosion started there. Its been here the last ~30 yrs, most of those in a residential garage, partly assembled. Anyway, after driving it near 4 yrs, the damned driver side rail under my seat to the tranny crossmember...

EXCELLENT! I might need a new tranny X-member also. Take your time. Thanks for such a prompt reply! Gerald Morris

Looking at the crumbling remains of the drivers side rail on Mathilda. I plan to "splint" it this weekend, just for short term until I can get a good rail to replace it. Gratefully, Gerald

This sort of solution has occurred to me ever since I got Mathilda Mar, 2016. Strut channel has appeal here too. As an old electrician, I know a few tricks with strut and straps. I might try a strong 1 hole rigid pipe strap, say, 1.25 - 1.5" with some poly bushings meant for 7/8" bars. A few...