Search results for query: *

I would bet my bottom dollar that if i attempted this myself, i throw the TDC mark out of kilter and waste my efforts. I am curious to know tho..... what/who is the source for replacement rubbers???

Not a one size fits all question. Fiber gaskets are often used with aluminum manifolds as John said. However, if machine work required cutting of heads, block, manifold or all, then you may have to have them. Best practice is to drop the manifold on with NO gasket or bathtub, then look...

If it looks good, and the timing mark at TDC is spot on, id leave it alone.

What do the pushrods look like on top?? Who supplied them? Sizes match up??

Used, or brand new Torker? BB swaps are usually pretty easy, since you dont get into the cooling system. Just test fit and be wary of a manifold that may have been cut on. You may need one or even two sets of paper gaskets and i would leave the bathtub in place for initial fitment. Two...

Any pix or clues given from post #4 may help you (and us). That is a forged crank engine, or at least it has one in it now. Maybe pull the bearing shell you already have in hand off the cap and give us the info you find on the back of the shell?? Also, there may be a forging number stamped...

Did you check end play??? As-in you had none before starting to teardown?? You should be able to fit a feeler gauge in between each bearing shell and the crank. Both top and bottom shells have the same issue?? Also, if you put the crank back in without that #3 bearing, torque the other 4 caps...

Looking for the small oil port on the block, you'll see there is one on each bank of the block, which feeds oil up to the valve gear on each head. Looking for the adjoining holes in each head, you'll see there are two small holes in each head. The oil passages go to two ports on the heads...

I can see that one oil port is plugged on each head. Make sure that you either clean these passages out thouroghly or be sure to return them to the same side of the engine they came from. Don't assume that baking/soaking the heads will clean them out. Personally, I'm not sure I would go to...

Agreed. You list two distinctly different issues that could explain your problem, and would not normally happen together by chance. Give us some background on the car and the two issues..... you drove to the gas station? Rusty car? Maybe the bolt broke on top of the shift lever??

The sad truch is, if you don't buy stuff specifically for your cars, the vendors who make and sell stuff for your cars will become harder and harder to find. Which is already bad enough as-is.

Seems to be $320 for a big car tank on Rockauto. Dont know what vehicle you have.....

Whats the question? Late `66 made for `67 model year....actually put together on Dec 5th, but block was cast in July. Forged crank motor for sure, and i think once you pull the valve covers, you'll find that the heads are the desireable closed chamber `915 ones, but the the small exhaust...

For a street use stroker, you are probably going to want to limit the stroke to one that will still allow use of the blocks internal oil passages.... I think (don't quote me) you can go 4.125" without the counterweights hitting the oil pickup at the block, but you're getting real close. So, a...

I dont think A35 included the SureGrip... It was a separate option, IDB D?91. Heavy tow option A35 included separate trans cooler, wiring with provision to plug in accessory wiring, IDB, and possibly holes in rear frame to line up with commonly used dealer installed hitches of the day.

Whaaat? Lol

Very strong chance both new yorkers had 8.75 rears with 2.76 gears in open diffs.

Not an expert...so bear that in mind firstly. I've interchanged "early" torque converters onto non lockup trans' at least until 1978 with no issues, meaning '67 and later 24 spline units. What matters is the plane of the pad mounting surface in relation to both the crank hub and the oil pump...

The junk you are seeing in the pan is normal wear and tear.... you are just looking at the friction material off the clutches. The trans does a good job of using up the available clearances until the friction material is gone. This is part of the reason you set the clearances in the clutches...

A&A did have various performance converters listed, as well as valve bodies, ETC for pre'65 tranmissions..... I'd certainly call them for any hard parts you may need. There are not many cores floating around as far as the valve body is concerned, and you should be aware that those do crack...