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That particular switch is dual function, so yes, the brake lights were also controlled by that switch as well as the cruise cut out when the pedal is depressed.

Agree to all that, with the caveat that they need maintenance charging to maximize their lifespan.

Again, leaving the battery not charged like that is not the best practice in my experience, so I put the maintenance charger on it while disconnecting it from the car at the same time... I do this with all my car batteries. The challenge for me is that I like my clock to not have to be reset...

Firstly, get a decent battery charger and charge your battery on the lowest charge rate for a couple of days. That will maximize the battery's charge uptake. Do a load test on the battery to see if it stands up. If it fails, replace the battery. If it passes, recharge the battery again - a...

A fuel issue would likely have the motor gasping as it stopped. A loss of spark has the engine stopping immediately. I still lean towards ignition - loss of coil, ECU failure, that sort of thing. A car needs spark, fuel, and air to run. So start at the beginning: AIR Well, it's obvious it's...

Please check the 12V feed to the coil - the wire runs along the valve cover and is held down by bend-over tabs, which can rub the insulation away and short the wire to ground. I had the EXACT same symptoms as you, and it was hard to diagnose. Found it, and it's solved the issue.

Nicely done!

I agree with this - the ammeter is generally NOT the issue, biggest issue is loose and corroded connections, bad repairs and the like. I've never had an ammeter fail, but I would expect it to fail if its connections were loose. If one has ever removed the gauge cluster, you've had to remove...

@live4theking has it correct. Just make the joint safe and durable. A LOT of amperage can flow through there. Anything that has a heavy load (headlights, heat/AC and such) would be good if there were independent relays to service those circuits, to take the load.

I highly recommend doing the bypass now. It's so easy to prep the new wires needed to do the bypass (and it's WAY safer), especially with the harness out of the car. Please consider doing it now - it's super easy to poke both the black and red power wires through the speedo cable grommet, and...

Following! Hard work, but worth it!

:rofl:

Separate. Not too hard to get to. @Ripinator - remind me of your offer please... old brain, poor memory

The draw tests were on the bench and in the car, and were identical. I agree, the connectors and old wiring are the issue. New AC vacuum control switch, NOS 3 speed fan switch and new wiring are coming as a winter project. The most enjoyable process of gutting the dash awaits me. Yay...

Correct - and if I wanted to use a relay I'd have to create a harness and install a relay for each fan speed (using the switch's wires going to the original resistor setup).

That's what I intend to do when my reproduction battery fails - cut it open, gut it and put an AGM battery in it.

Headlight switch controls those, and if the switch is bad, or the wire has come off the connector at the back, no interior or dash lights. Also, check to see if the fuse for the tail lights is gone - no dash lights was the tell-tale sign to the driver that the tail light fuse was burnt.

Agreed - sorry if I wasn't clear - the assumption I made is that this step is in addition to correcting issue that exists at the bulkhead, which is that the hot feed to the ammeter (red wire), which connects to the black wire side of the gauge comes through the firewall in a way that bypasses...

If one wants to bypass the gauge completely, just bolt both wires to one stud of the gauge. Doing this eliminates the gauge, and makes the connection at a sturdy protected stud terminal.

Same here!