Search results for query: *

Does your car have drum brakes or disc brakes? The best dual circuit master would be one from a 67 - 73 full size. Pretty much any one for C body car similarly equipped - so if your car has drum brakes, get a drum brake master cylinder, such as what's available here at Rock Auto: 68 Fury...

There is always the option of a bolt in metering valve that is correct for the weight of your car, and even has the correct bracket and everything... as found for sale in this thread: For Sale - DISC BRAKE Proportioning Valves. BUDD Disc Brakes. 66-69 "C" Body & Imperial.

Nice bracket. Keep in mind that you'll have a challenge accessing the bracket's mounting bolt with the fender on - that's why the others all mount with the bolt on the INBOARD side of the stub frame rail. I believe you're on the right track with the port labelling, but there are others here...

Following - I have the same BANG on small drop-offs in the road surface... catches me by surprise!

I know that - it's just a drag for you that to find out regardless. :) Comiserating, not judging - you made the right choice to go factory.

Glad to hear of your successes, sorry to hear that you had to do it by finding out that the aftermarket systems don't add up to what the factory engineered. Enjoy your car!

As are the rear drums on my 66 - held on with sheet metal nut clips.

Following!

Really good advice!

Yup - by "pressed them out carefully" after I'd cut off the swages, it was literally a block of wood and a BFH used gently. They came out quite easily, and in my case, I'm sure the rotors were not damaged.

Many years ago I had my new drums swaged to the front studs on my turquoise 66 Monaco. I had the old ones cut off by a grey beard pro using proper drill press and a swage cutter. The rear drums are not swaged to the rear studs. I would not bother swaging new studs to front drums as it's not...

@mobileparts - Craig will have what you need.

@mobileparts (Craig) may have your master cylinder.

I didn't gather that from his post, only that he was concerned things might move around if not swaged.

Swage cutter like that is exactly what is used - then the studs just tap out. I didnt have one so I used a small grinding wheel to carefully cut away the swages when I swapped out L.H. studs for rights on a pair of NOS rotors when I was doing a disc conversion.

Most don't swage the studs to new drums after replacement, and it's not required. However, sadly, most don't cut the swages away when replacing studs and keeping the old drums which are good, and ruin usable drums by bashing them out of round in the process.

Thanks - that's it - no evidence, only heresay. I'm pretty sure you're correct. The Pirate Jack ones state theirs are only 8" across, which only adds to the confusion, but I eliminate those from any real consideration as they're aftermarket. I had to have a pushrod cut down on one of my...

Imperial boosters used a longer pushrod than C bodies too in 1966 - 1968, but the parts book says they're the same booster between C body and Imperial for 69 - 70. I was incorrect regarding my initial response and thinking it was a much later part number (which also happens to be the proper...

Is that your NOS Bendix booster? I believe you posted about that last year in the thread linked below. A larger picture may help as well. The numbers stamped are probably manufacturing numbers and have little to do with the catalogued part number, and it may be superceded to a later style...

The one he got will likely be the KH single diaphragm unit (wider) for disc brakes. 1969s still used the skinnier Bendix, and the transitioned in 1970 to the other. By 1972 the body and firewall started to evolve - so things may have changed enough to pose problems, BUT... ya never know...