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Oh, I can be rude, believe me! :lol: :canada: By the way Craig, Canadiens are a hockey team... Canadians are residents of Canada. :poke: And yes, :welcome: @edbods!

Forgive me and my tone, which may have seemed rude. My apologies. From your original post, I didn't realise you're a new member here. i'm happy to tell you of Craig. He is a respected authority and vendor of correct brake parts as well as many other driveline/steering/suspension parts...

Why go anywhere else for brake shoes now other than Craig @mobileparts ?

That is not the right nut there. Use a pair of linesman's pliers, and hold them open against the inside walls of the nut's flats, and use that to get the nut started to turn. Also, gently push on the bezel to push the whole assembly back as you're attempting to turn the nut, so as to take some...

NOT MINE - NOT MINE - 1966 Fury III 383, 4 speed WITH FACTORY AC for sale

Were you able to extract the base from the socket?

Yes, push then turn.

Mr Heaterbox in Kingston Ontario Canada is another option. He gets good reviews as well. Welcome - Premium Dash Decals by Mr.Heaterbox Scroll down to Radio Restorations

It looks like smoked glass because of deposits from the filiment have darkened the glass. The bulb should be clear glass. The base of the bulb should push into the bulb connector and twist to remove.

Hey @detmatt - I will likely want some of those... who knows when though...

Ground strap for the body to the engine is on the firewall to one of the rear intake manifold bolts.

:lol:Lol... I don't think I can read! Because I'm so used to people asking how to remove the knob from a headlight switch that's where my mind defaulted to. Now I feel silly! @watchfatha - oops! Thanks for picking up on that. While this likely redundant now since the OP says he's figured it...

If it's a pull type knob, and you're attempting to get the knob out and then remove the switch entirely, then the knob and its shaft are held into the switch by a little detent button. Reach under the dash and feel around the switch for a little pushbutton on the top, side or bottom of the...

I'm sure you'll have no issues selling the system - I know for a fact there is at least one person interested in it!

So - if you were closer I'd buy all the AC parts... but really (said with respect), why wouldn't you refurbish the AC? When the system is in good repair, it is truly EXCELLENT... so if it were me... The system is quite simple - and finding leaks is quite simple too. If that's your only issue...

The shroud on your 22" radiator is valuable. Much sought-after by those wishing to improve the cooling on their smaller rads.

As far as I have heard, it's a lot easier to do it by removing the grille, front bumper and the radiator yoke, and pulling the whole shebang (engine and trans) forward.

I hear you! FWIW, the quarters may differ significantly on the whole, but keep this in mind - I expect the wheel openings are nearly identical, if not shorter on the wagon, and that's only the real issue for you is that part's geometry. My 66 wagon's wheel openings are shorter than the 4...

If I may make a suggestion - get some rust free AZ quarters - use those to make patch panels. Desert Valley has some 65 and 66 Polaras and Monacos there that could provide usable stuff. I bought my full quarters from them - best thing I could have done. 1966 Dodge Monaco (#66DO5119B) |...

In the 65 parts catalogue, it's listed as an assembly with the glass itself. Glass with front and rear frame - section 23-64-308