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When I built my 73 'Port, I ran a starter cable (0 gauge?) directly from the battery to the 100 amp alternator, completely bypassing the ammeter. Gauge is defunct now, serves no purpose but as a connecting source to other underdash wiring sources. I use an aftermarket volt gauge to monitor...

I just looked, that's outside my budget.

That's good advise, @John Kirby & @'66 Fury I thank you. I hadn't considered that. I already have large grommets ordered for wiring, a hole saw assortment & I can get a length of 3/4" plastic corrugated conduit I can use to plumb an exhaust port from the trunk battery box to the floor behind...

No doubt! Takes a special sort to love them big body Mopar's most others would pass by without a glance, and the fellowship here on this site is above and beyond what one would find for other classes or body styles.

When I lived in Florida, they were used every other week. Lots of dumbasses in the sunshine state. It is ground zero for Florida-Man after all. Not to mention all the tourists who forget to pack their brains for their vacation. In the 2 years since my return to Texas, I've only used them maybe 3...

That grey solenoid Fury Fan posted is an 85A version of the 65A one I have my eye on, same brand too, Cole Hersee. That would work, it'll do what I need it for. @fury fan what do you want for that grey solenoid, the clear fat fuse & the 6 lug strip? I have to power 4 amps and tie in a big...

The starter is one of those modern mini starters you would find on a late model V8 Durango. In fact, that's what I told the parts guy when I ordered it so that's what I got. I knew (from watching those gearhead shows on the Motor Trend channel on cable) that they are a direct bolt on replacement...

Attention shade tree electrical engineers: I got a chunk of change for my birthday & decided to invest it into Project Turd, my 73 More-Door Newport (called that because it doggy doo brown & it gets crappy gas mileage). I ordered carpet, dead-liner insulation, cables, amplifiers, & speaker wires...

How can you tell if it is or not? Do they look any different? And which lead goes back to the regulator? The blue, hot energized lead (hot to key/ballast) or the 2nd green lead? Are you supposed to tape one off and ground the extra field terminal? Website documentation and/or pictures would...

Next up, if the voltage regulator does see power, is it making it to the alternator? I know on mine, I had to replace one of the clips that goes to the field terminals, damned thing kept working its way loose and sliding off. If it happens ONE MORE TIME, I'm gonna hard solder the wire to the...

Hey, we're all assuming the regulator receives power when the key is on. Check with a test light or multimeter that at least one of the wires on the regulator powers up, it could be that simple. If it doesn't, the field coils won't energize and no current will be produced.

Maybe you got a bad alternator. It does happen, especially since many vendors are outsourcing stuff from overseas nowadays. I have gotten a LOT of stuff labeled "Made in China" that was bad out of the box. Case in point: 1157 LED bulbs. Bench tested alright but wouldn't work when installed...

Try to see if you're getting a voltage drop between the battery and fuse box by using a handheld multimeter on each. Those 50 year old bulkhead connectors may have dirt or corrosion in them impeding the current and give a false reading at the fuse box. If it all checks out, try another...

Is that 11 volts with the engine off - key on, or motor running at idle? Are there any aftermarket accessories, such as electric fans, electric fuel pump, high powered stereo with amplifiers, aftermarket ignition system, fuel injection, etc. attached to the vehicle? Where are you "measuring"...