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What could possibly go wrong? :rofl:

Yeah, agreed if you're doing bench work and definitely for multiple bench assemblies. But it looks a bit unwieldly for one-off under dash or under hood work. Funny thing is, since it uses them, as I think I mentioned above....I used annoying alligator clips for years and years before I got the...

I totally agree. Have you seen this Cool Tool? Cool Tool

Very clever, until that goop gets on your carpet or upholstery. :mad:

Big_John, it seems that confused and obsessive minds think alike. :thumbsup: I also felt that the "Day Two" look had to be proper, whatever that meant. Indeed, I removed the inappropriate 60's chrome gages that were installed sometime in the prior 50 years. The provided bracket worked just...

This smaller, forward-facing bung is sized for the standard 1/8 NPT temp sender. Other housings have it facing up, where the AC sump would nearly be touching the housing, thus the forward facing bung in some housing for AC cars.

Does your setup have the small plug on the front of the housing (circled in yellow). That's where I "power" an aftermarket gage, and retaining the "cold/hot" sender in the traditional location.

Nice looking underhood, BTW.

The sender mush be grounded for it to complete the electrical circuit that turns the dash idiot lights on or off. So solder a wire to your sleeve (if it's brass) or figure something else out (if it's aluminum, can't quite tell), and run it to a ground....solved. That said, if you have some...

Nice!!

Amazon

That butt-splice solder tool looks GREAT! I've been fumbling around with alligator clips for decades....definitely buying one ASAP.

EvansWiring.com : Product Catalog

And find the f'g spring that may or may not be in there, cocked and loaded......

I don't know for sure if there's a spring in there, but if there is you can be sure it will end up in some hidden location in your work area! :BangHead: Pics of the guts before you take it apart can be a lifesaver.

Ross is right. Forget what I said about bending those tabs up. They hold the contacts/etc to the board. It's the two peened areas that hold the case to the board. Usually you can secure the case in a vise and "un-peen" the case using a tiny screwdriver or punch and a hammer. Or, you could...

Using a tiny, thin screwdriver (like a jeweler's screwdriver) pry the four tangs to vertical and the cover will come off. Careful....a spring may come rocketing out as you wiggle it apart, so beware. After cleaning up any crud in there with lacquer thinner, the copper contacts can be cleaned...

Nope, it's the AM/FM from my 70 Hurst. Damn thing weighs at least 8 pounds, and everything on it is sharp as hell when you're removing it from the dash, ESPECIALLY the heatsink on the back of it. Awful....

I re-read your symptoms, and it sounds like it could be a "voltage starvation" problem as you seem to have suspected in your original post. And voltage starvation in our old cars is typically a bad connection somewhere, either inside or outside the radio. Bad connection gets too...

Just find the bad solder joint and resolder it.....or the bad resistor or the bad transistor or the bad capacitor. No problem at all!! :rofl: