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So you really need holes for the speakers? Your system has that much fidelity? Believe me....your Journey, ABBA and Frampton tunes can be heard through the material. :poke:

Fortunately, my dash is perfect, somehow. But when the car is sitting in the sun or even going down the road....well, I hope to keep it that way. :thumbsup:

Perfect fit.

No, it's this sheetmetal-type screw. 1000530 REAR SEAT BACK TO FLOOR SCREWS, INTERIOR, 1000530 :Mopar Fasteners, Clips & Hardware

Glove box install requires proper use of curse words. If you don't cuss properly, vehemently, and nastily enough-ie....it simply won't go in. Gosh, dang and "golly gee willikers" only make it worse. My 70 300 box is two-piece, meaning twice as easy as a fully assembled one-piece unit. But...

I recently got that insulation kit for my kick panels, haven't bothered to install it just yet. Here's my driver's panel before I cleaned it up and refinished it with SEM saddle tan.

You actually think it's still there? :rofl:

You're working with crappy cardboard and spring clips that fit into it. Starting at the bottom, use a plastic trim removal tool (or a dreadful putty knife) placed as close to a clip as you can get it (so as not to tear the crappy carboard, which you WILL do) and simply pry it out. Then work up...

Yes, the repop is not nearly as flexible as the old, flimsy, worn-out original. But it's robust, and as we've discussed, you can bend it and fold it and angle it in there with no damage. And yes indeed, getting the screws properly into the reinforced screw holes in the box is a real pain...

Remove the glove box door so that you don't break it by (unthinkingly) leaning your forearms on it as you wrestle the old box out and the new one in, and to give you some room to work.

Yep, but I can't remember which direction to "pop". Protect panel from the screwdriver with a bit of cardboard. Or use nylon trim removal tools.

Yes. They screw into the inner door panel. The "squares" pry off, and then the screws as you can see in the second picture. Caution: Be EXTREMELY careful with the window switches and particularly the connectors to those switches. It's not the best design, and it's really bad after 50 years...

Just thought I'd toss this out there for reference. Vacuum and cable release, cuz I ain't got no keyhole in the lid. No keyhole!!

Yep, that's exactly what I was doing two years ago. Cleaning, lubing, lubing the "cable drives" to the gears, the gear boxes, etc. Messy job for sure.

Hope your stuff will work. Good luck! Oh...mine are MUCH cleaner now than they are in these pix. 50 years of awfulness down there.......:eek:

Here's pics of my seat tracks....1970 300.

Well.....actually.....the Hursts are the "different breed of cat", from the true letter cars. Even Chrysler literature at the time stated silliness like "hearkening back to the Letter cars of our storied past", meaning it's NOT a Letter car. After dismal sales for a $7000 car that nobody knew...

Yep. As for the 300-H discussion, you are correct. That's why we call colloquially call 'em "Hursts".

Basically, yes. Chrysler built a white 300 with all the heavy duty running gear, the Imp interior, and with a few mandatory deletes such as no vinyl top, no body side molding, and no stripes so to allow the Hurst to do their thing at their facility, which was the fiberglass hood and decklid...

The velour is not original, period. And that's fine.....50 years is a long time. Here's my Sheet, and I DON'T have velour. Notice the A12 code, circled in green. That's what really determines that it was the Hurst package.