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I had a good look at this beauty at Kissimmee. Damn nice. I'm friends with the owner of the "Deering Musclecar Collection". Deering Collection I was sitting with him when his 15K mile, perfect 71 Hemi Cuda 4 speed went for $600K.....which elicited a happy fist-bump! Most of his other cars...

Bingo!! There's everything "right" about a reliable cruiser. :thumbsup:

But but but but but....that's not what he asked. My intent was to close the door to the thousands of suggestions and erroneous advice that guys on all motor vehicle forums always leap to provide to an OP, while ignoring what that OP originally asked about. Did you ever hear the story about...

To answer your specific question, and not bring in camshafts and strokers and 360s and aftermarket aluminum 340 heads and dual exhaust and superchargers and nitrous oxide and.....well, the answer is simply "no". Let's be realistic here. The two barrel on that engine is quite sufficient to...

Since this is about dream cars, I'm pretty much going with a convertible Hemi Cuda, auto with console delete and cassette recorder that spent its early life in France and DID NOT SELL at Mecum Indy 2021 for $3.5M.

I'm glad you were able to find those parts through this forum. And yes, as often happens with "Help!" posts, it takes a few questions and answers to figure out what someone is asking. Some parts and problems have common wording, others not so much....like door hinges, for instance. :poke...

Perhaps you missed my point. All those hinge springs thru all those years are what keeps the door from closing on your leg. It's up to you to find a spring that has the same type, length, diameter, and wire size to solve your problem. Chrysler sold compete hinges with the spring installed...

First, a spring is a spring, unless it's a specific torsion spring like those used in the EBod doors. So, if your door uses either a compression or a tension spring, you can find a match at Depot or the McMaster catalogue, etc, etc. You'll need to measure and match the length and diameter of...

Here's the solid state regulator: RTE limiter - rte And while you have the dash apart, you might want to consider this circuit board: 69 - 73 C Body Chrysler Newport, New Yorker, 300 Circuit Board - Premium Dash Decals by Mr.Heaterbox I used both of these items when I rebuilt my dash.

That’s all very interesting, thanks. Glad you have the hood and decklid.

That is certainly a Hurst fender tag. Are you sure your car is NOT a Hurst? If not, maybe the car it was originally attached to was wrecked or rotted away and the hood and deck were salvaged for similar 300? Surprising that someone doing that would also harvest the fender tag, unless they...

Outstanding!! :usflag:

It certainly should, unless you have a TiltTele....not sure if they're the same. I doubt it. Here's where that noisy lower bearing lives. I don't believe it's available as a single bearing. I think it's part of an assembly called an "adapter". No "lower bearing" is shown. Just the...

The upper bearing is readily available: Mopar All 62-79 Steering Column Bearing & Isolator Insulator However, there is also a LOWER bearing, and mine also had a screeching sound. That's because it was dry and rusty. See Post # 2 for a fix: 1965 Chrysler 300 Lower Steering Column Bearing

Wow, what a difference. Yeah, that car looks great with those new wheels.

Wikipedia: "Restrictions to the fitting of ornaments on the front of vehicles have been introduced in some jurisdictions. Projecting decorative designs on the hood may increase the risk of injury to pedestrians in the case of an accident. Regulations introduced in the United States for the...

Please see Post #7 in this thread: strong engine mounts 1969 c body 440 And this: Broken motor mounts.....here's the fix

Ahhh, yes...the old Molten Switch problem! Good on ya for doing that refurb. Kinda fun, wasn't it? I've thought about relays, too, but haven't quite figured out how that would work, routing juice through the resistor, etc. Frankly, I don't feel like messing around under the dash again, after...

I believe Mr. Lux meant to say it will NOT work.

These switches have small vacuum leaks, and that's okay because of the constant source of vacuum from the engine (and the reservoir). Your trouble is electrical, not from a vacuum leak. How so? Turn your key to Accessory (engine off) and the fan will blow without any vacuum (in a properly...