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This is a lot like I mounted mine in my 69 300. The bottle I have has a built in overflow, in the neck, that emptys at the bottom of the bottle. I never did see any residue anti freeze on the ground.

I have one that I pulled off a 72 Satellite and used on my 69 300. i mounted it to the left side rotating headlight bracket, fit great. I still have the overflow bottle and would let it go if your interested.

FYI...... They are NOT freeze plugs. That would lend one to think they are designed to pop out under pressure of ice.... They are not! The correct term is "core plugs" The holes they fill are the result of the casting process.

Likely a bound or disconnected control cable, as stated by traintech. Be sure your coolant lever is as should be. It's a hot water heater and needs hot water to function.

I just recently reassembled the heater box from my 67 Polara using foam sealer tape from ACE hwd. I don't have pictures but it isn't hard to figure out what needs to get sealed. MCT has seal kits for these.

If your using a non original front cover why is original temp sensor location so critical?

You "up north" guys don't benefit much from A/C. Where I live its mandatory. If your car is a factory air car then keep the componants in place, working or not.

Attempting to adjust your engine temp to eliminate "fuel boil" is.... well.... NOT a good idea and won't work anyways. Correct engine temp is crucial to engine performance. I live in Foley so I know what your up against. You need to look at a spacer between the carb and manifold and/or fuel...

Rock Auto lists several 1964 DODGE 440 5.2L 318cid V8 Water Pump | RockAuto

The rubber hoses should not be used if converting to R-134. The Teflon lining within a rubber hose is the best method. Rubber hose will allow R134 to slowly leak down. New hoses are not that expensive. I used a complete underhood changeover kit, Sanden type compressor, mount brackets, two new...

I had the same basic system on the admiral and had 32 degrees at the center vent on low fan.

That's beautiful Mike. Sure you don't want to hold out for that special wagon.....? :poke:

Maybe crank the torsion bars down a bit and lower the front. Running downhill might help.

I had a similar problem years ago with my Dakota. The original plastic rad sprung a leak so I replaced it with a aftermarket rad. The overheating continued. I chased it for awile, new therm, hoses, water pump, etc, and decided it had to be the replacement rad. Turns out it was a 6 cyl rad, I had...

You need to verify what the operating temp actually is. I changed the guage sender on the Admiral because the guage was reading hot, although there were no other signs of overheating....... No change. I bought an electric aftermarket guage at Carlisle and installed it. Now shows a steady 190...

I listed the wrong company for the sanden conversion kit. Correct company is "classic auto air". Sorry for any confusion..... Senior moment. Mopar OEM Factory Air Conditioning Parts & Restoration Services

Evan's is all that it's cracker up to be, but is expensive. I doubt it will cure your problem. Check your fan,.... is it turning the right way....? Blowing in, not out.

I removed the original clutch fan and replaced it with a 7 blade fixed fan 1/2" from the radiator. Have never had an overheating issue.

Correct, .... Good eye Jer. It's not the compressor that was included in the kit. Long story, ask me at Carlisle.

Fuel mileage didn't suffer as it did with the original V type compressor, less vibration also a weight advantage. Parts can be found anywhere, which is important if you tour as much as we do.