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I think bypassing the ammeter under the hood but leaving it still hooked up would be a decent option. The ammeter would still function somewhat, but it would not be carrying a huge amount of current. And as stated, if it failed, the circuit would still be complete and you would not be...

Excellent job so far. You're in the home stretch! One question I have regarding the headlight relay mod, if you use LED's do you even need it? Don't they draw a lot less power than the original incandescent bulbs? Or are they just so much brighter and draw about the same current? Just...

Thanks! That was very helpful!

Sorry. It's a '68 Chrysler 300.

Is this something that is important to do if everything in the car is factory stock? I've heard it should be done if you upgrade the alternator and start pulling a lot more amps than the factory wiring was designed for. I'm guessing the only reason they catch fire is because the connections on...

Very handy! Greatly appreciated!

I don't think you need a valve job, maybe just a valve seal. Anyway, if you were to put a different plug in one cylinder, as long as it was firing I don't think you'd notice any difference at all.

Maybe try spraying some WD-40 around the base of the bulb.

Are you able to remove the socket from the housing? If so then I would think the bulb would be easy to remove.

Also make sure you replaced the turn signal flasher module and not the hazard flasher module. They're in two different places under the dash and they are two different types of flashers.

There are probably different part numbers depending on which steering column and which features you have. I'm not sure about the 65 Fury, but for example, my 68 300 uses like 4 different ones depending on if it has the tilt/tele steering column, cornering lights, lane change, etc. Try to get...

I think you have to take out the whole lifting mechanism but not the glass. BE CAREFUL when you remove the motor from the mechanism, the spring is wound up and when it lets go you can easily lose a finger! You should always put it in a vise before unbolting the motor. Nice car. Is this the...

I had this same problem and it was the gap in the distributor from the rotor to the pickup. Needs to be very close.

I agree, when headlights come on, parking lamps go out. This is exactly the way it's supposed to work. There was a grace period of a year or two when they could just affix reflectors to vehicles that didn't come with side marker lights. My grandfather's '68 A100 had them.

Don't be surprised if the new radio doesn't pick up as many AM stations as the old one. Old AM radios seem to have much better sensitivity than new ones.

I said it before, I'll say it again. Buy De-Oxit and use on the bulkhead connector or any other connector. It cleans and prevents corrosion and will improve the conductivity of the connection thus reducing heat and current. The electrical systems in our cars are far from ideal, but this will...

Just to add to my last message, I think the reading on your meter is sky-high because you have the terminal off the battery therefore no load on the alternator. I don't think that's too good for the electrical system.

First off, I don't think you should take a battery terminal off the battery while the car is running. I can't think of any reason to do that. I think the battery should read about 13V when the car is not running and about 14.3V when the car is running. If like around 11V or so when it's...

I installed an aftermarket electronic ignition on my '68 Chrysler and it would not start while cranking, but would start (or try to) when you released the key from the start position and moved it to the run position. It pretty much did just what you are experiencing. In my experience this is...

Aside from my story, other things to check of course are the starter relay, all connections including the bulkhead connector, transmission safety switch, and starter.