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I would remove the door cards on the ones you think are needing service and unplug the whip in between the switches and the motor so that you can easily introduce 12 volts to them as if they were on the bench. See how they work when taking all of the switches out of the equation and this is also...

I have several of these. I’ll check to see if any are correct tomorrow.

That’s just a junction block, the fusible link is in the wire itself.

Mancini’s or summit for new or I might have a gently used one here in the Detroit area.

Moving slow is not a good sign as you won’t like the next speed if you don’t address that issue. Get in there and clean and re-grease the regulator and if that doesn’t do it you might do the same with the motor.

@Devinism rebuilds these.

Only slightly off topic. I still have this. For Sale - NOS 1969/70 power seat switch bezel

I guess we’re reading different threads… I’ve got 30k miles on a “I” completely trouble free and regret switching from another “I” on a different car to Chrysler electronic ignition.

But don’t overthink it, just get the standard Pertronix unit not the II or III.

@Devinism

Is the blurry pic of the box the repair kit? Let’s see what’s inside if it is and in focus please…:poke:

You’ve got to visually inspect the regulator, it is probably missing some teeth.

I have plenty of good regulators available if you end up needing one.

If the gear on the motor spins you need to replace the regulator because the teeth are probably worn or missing creating a dead spot.

Then refer to the ever famous power window motor rebuild thread for directions on the easy fix.

Remove whatever that is and take the gear cover off. You will likely find a crumbled mess inside.

Yep, I agree with everything said in the first post and with what Scott said. If you have the engine harness it’d be much quicker plugging it in than making up some temporary harness just to run the car for 20 minutes.

I would phone a friend, @Devinism

From ‘67 Imp to ‘69 300 they could probably be made to work but the ‘69 power bases were different in almost every way. sounds like you might have a ‘67 parts car?

I haven’t had the pleasure of using the windows in my ‘64-‘66s enough to know(sad really) but I would assume they should work like the ‘67s in that you would pull back on the switch to roll them down. The harness plugs in the doors near the motors are T shaped so there’s no reversing the way the...