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Might not be product demand specifically, he might just be doing more efficient manufacturing, to make a small batch and kanban the inventory. For low-runner parts, the inventory cost is less than the waste of setting up to make a qty of 1. Regardless, it's great that he's making stuff for us.

Excellent work, @Big_John! I love the sanded ring of shiny metal and the tri-color decals from the Cricut. Cool to learn you have a 3D printer for such shenanigans. I've got a CNC router that I've used for some car stuff. A 300L is a tough one for adding gauges as the console's vacuum gauge...

It's been a month, so don't know if this is completed yet. I fully support the use of relays. I wouldn't worry too much about where to mount them - if you make the harness long enough you can mount them anywhere. Behind the passenger-side kickpanel? Fastened to a small plate that is fastened...

Dirty connections might not cause a voltage spike, but loose ones can, causing the regulator to see spikes in system voltage, and telling the alternator to supply max voltage in response. @barsteel I have a 65 Fury 4-speed car also, although mine is a project car, sitting and waiting, sitting...

I originally planned to use 4 smaller 10-watt LED chips, but the 50-watt was much cleaner to install. Fewer screws and much less wiring to route to the chips (even less than 2 10-watt chips). I don't know that mine required a heatsink, because as you mentioned, reverse lights aren't on for that...

It snaps into 2 screw-on clips, which I like. Although it requires more accuracy in drilling the mtg holes than a screw-thru-housing design. It was pretty easy to mount except it needed 2 spacer blocks due to the curvature of the inner trunk lid where I mounted it, to get the clips out of the...

@Boyd Sorry, I missed your questions until now. Don't know how that happened, I'm usually diligent to answer questions of me. I used the existing wiring back to the C-pillar/rear wheelwell area, then spliced new wiring into that. The original wiring exited the trunk, ran behind the bumper...

I experienced that ~20 years ago with a 70 Fury after I put relays on the lights. Now I know!

There certainly could be some disparity in how the camera captures the difference in brightness from the rear, depending on the angles between the camera and all the fresnels in the lenses. But the shot on the inside of the garage door seems pretty objective.

I discovered an incandescent upgrade bulb for the 1157s for our brake lights (and probably amber front turn signals too). Bulb 2357 is a drop-in for the 1157. It has the same candlepower for taillighting, but is brighter on brake lights. (although I think the taillight is a little brighter...

I doubt going 1 range hotter would cause detonation. I've never noticed it in my cars. But, oil in a combustion charge reportedly can cause detonation, so there's that. YMMV from mine.

I've had good luck with Autolite 86, which is 1 heat range hotter (85 is 'normal'). You could also have a leaking intake/valley pan gasket, and the offending cylinder is sucking oil in. I've never experienced that, but a buddy has.

You can make a clean spot with a sanding roll on a Dremel. The wrap with some wire and hose-clamp it into place. Run the wire to a good ground. Put some electrical grease on to slow corrosion. That would be one 'hack' way to get the originals working.

Old thread, but wanted to mention for any future readers: 12.35 volts on a battery is at least 25% discharged. 12.6 volts is 100% charged, although a healthy battery will be in the 12.7-12.8 range.

You can, you just need to look at the traces and figure out which pins feed which lights, then use jumper wires in the correct locations. That is how I discovered how finicky the LEDs/sockets were. What @rags and @Michael E Mason said is on-target too. I did not use the emery cloth to clean...

Idiot lights should get 12v constant, the 5v regulator is to slow-down the response of the gauges. Otherwise the gas gauge needle would wiggle around when going around turns, stopping at a red light, etc.

When I was evaluating LEDs in a 65-66 cluster (here), I found that the bulb sockets were VERY finicky about how much to twist them vs the LED working. And the polarity, too, of course.

Any further news to report? I think I may need to do this repair on my 65 Saginaw tilt column soon, so I'm reading up on it. (thanks for posting that other discussion in your first post!)

I did look at some long/slender red reflectors to install, to mount them with standoffs or something, like I did with the backing lites. But I was at a 'shoot the engineer, deliver the product' stage. I also looked for chrome bezels for the lights, but don't know which ones would fit my lights...

@300rag Yeah, that reminds me more fully, that yours were epoxied in place or something. In spite of all the hassles this gave me, earlier tonight I was eyeballing a set of 68 Newport lenses/housings I have, thinking about what it would take to convert them. And I don't even own a car for them.