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If this replacement sub is rust-free as you say, I would not bother doing this reinforcement to it. Depending on what your car's body type is, you'd get more benefit tying the F&R subframes together. Time better spent. As @Fratzog said - just put a block of wood on your floor jack instead.

FWIW, general recommendations on here are to NOT use a drum-brake booster with discs as it will not provide enough boost in a hard/panic stop to maximize braking. Most of those discussions revolve around C-bodies where the factory provided a specific booster for discs vs drums. How a 64 booster...

If the pads were semi-metallic, I believe those are not as good until they get some heat in them. But then they don't fade as much as organics would at higher temperatures.

FWIW, I love my manual discs. Good pedal travel and control.

I initially pictured some raggedy bare-wheel car. I would not put wheelcovers on that car, and certainly not ones that are incorrect and smaller-sized. 68 wheelcovers will downgrade the elegance and presence of that car as it now sits. But - you are the only one that needs to be happy with how...

Well, they fit, I've used them. The strut rod bushings might have a different part#, IDK, but they fit fine on my 65 and 68 Furys. I've used B-body polyurethane leafspring and shackle bushings on various cars over the last 25 years. The poly shackle bushigns do require to retrofit to 9/16"...

There are very few B-body suspension parts that interchange with C-body. Certainly none of the structural parts. The strutrod bushings and leafspring bushings are the only ones that come to my mind.

Old questions, but for future readers: Verify that both hubs take the same inner and outer bearings and seal as a first step. In my wanderings, it seems like none of the smaller carlines share those parts with a C-body.

A-B-E discs back then used a rotor that was 1" smaller dia than a C-rotor, so some 14" rims will fit. (14" drumbrake rims will not) Then, FWIW, later B-bodies got 11.75" rotors, same dia as a C-body, but those rotors were thinner (.875 or 1") vs the C-body's 1.25" thickness. If the OP's '70...

Sorry, I was speaking of something related but different. To clarify: The Road Wheels have a larger area around the lugnut region vs standard steel wheels. The AMC caps, although larger, will fit a Road Wheel just fine. FWIW, they also fit a '79 300 wheel too. Road Wheel centers will fit a...

FWIW, the AMC caps are a slightly larger diameter (about 1/8") at the base than the Roadie caps. A Road Wheel cap will mount to a standard steel wheel, but the AMC cap won't seat fully, it would need some spacers.

Well, the engineers saw fit to not use that booster with discs in 66-68, they used the Bendix dual-diaphragm. Perhaps due to the 4-piston Kelseys? And perhaps the Midland is OK with the single-piston 69-73 calipers you used? But - they chose to continue to use the Bendix with those single...

@SF-66TC Perhaps it's day-late/$-short to say this, but you should advise the new owner of your T&C to change that drum-brake booster out for a disc-brake booster.

Rim A looks like it could be an Aspen/Volare rim that has clearance for disc brakes. I just looked at a 68-newer drum-brake rim in the basement, and it is noticeably different from the one pictured.

Agreed, all the leaves were tired, but it was pretty cost-effective at the time. Not time effective for the long run, though. I would be surprised if any local spring shop has the equipment to re-temper them. Re-arching them is just mechanically yielding them to back to their original shape...

It's been prolly 20 years since I pressed a LCA bushing in place. But lookin at it now, I wonder if the lip was originally there as an assembly aid - press it in until it won't go any further. Then, production equipment can use that to cause a pressure spike in the hydraulics, and the controls...

Some of the re-man steering gearboxes are now different in appearance and fitment. See this thread: Differences in SLAB steering boxes - advertised to be equivalent 68 Newport but not so As for your 69 still having some slack - The adjustment should've been done at the rebuilder. Also, the...

I've done what @Ross Wooldridge discussed (rebuilding springs) 3 times over the years. I deviated from his suggestion, though: I had an extra set of used springs, and borrowed a leaf from 1 set and put into the other. (I did not re-arch) I replaced all the wear pads, center bolt...

Nor do they usually consider C-bodies.. Good catch on the pump, @Big_John.

What's your engine size? 361 or 383? Adding a 4-barrel might add 20hp. What's your budget? Overdrive trans has lots of options, none are direct bolt-in, any of them will cost thousands. Search on here and you'll find recent threads. Adding overdrive isn't worthwhile unless you re-gear the...