Search results for query: *

My memory was that it was tacky no matter what, and there was no way to have the next layer not interfere with the prior one. Pulling fingers from layer #2 was a great way for it to happen. It was 30+ years ago.

If I was going to use fiberglass, it would be the mat, not cloth. Cloth works nice for wrapping around corners and edges. In your mind, you just add layer after layer and build it up. In reality, I've found that whatever you are using to lay down the next layer will stick to the layer below...

FWIW, a suggestion on the design: Get rid of the slot and make it a keyhole instead. That keeps the bolt in place while you're straddling the rear bumper and trying to insert the bolt into the hole and not drop the insert panel or scratch the paint and reach for a nutdriver and not drop the...

Do the towel-toss test before and after. Toss it across the hood or roof before you clay it. Reach up and grab it, keep it for afterward. Clay the car, wax it, and toss the towel again. This time, walk around the car and pick it up off the floor.

While in the neighborhood, the fuel filler flapdoor was always misaligned and it irritated me. I spent some time readjusting the hinge bracket, and it reminded me very much of adjusting that PITA valve on top of the PS gearbox. :BangHead: 1. it needs to be in exactly the right place L-R and...

I polished some trim around the taillights on my 300L. When removing it, a couple of the metal clips broke. I had nothing similar in my Plano box of clips, and didn’t want to spend an hour or 2 online trying to find the right ones, and spending $30 or more to get them. Due to all the angles...

If a floor repair restores integrity, seals the outside from the inside, and is durable - then the only difference is what the purists require: which is that something that is not-often seen should be made visually correct. I vowed years ago to never do another trunk floor unless it was a...

My experience with Sherman was from teh mid-90s, with a quarterpanel patch for a 65 Fury. I bought 1 to evaluate, as it was not returnable. It didn't fit the car's profile at all, you could fit a pencil between it and the fenderskirt in some spots. And was way too thin to weld in place. Things...

My white 68 Fury had a decent vinyl top when I got it. Within 5-ish years it was starting to split, so I peeled it and painted it. My speculation of what I did 20 years ago - IIRC it wasn't that terrible of a job, but it was a full day's work. Peeled the vinyl, either by pulling or with putty...

Perhaps late to this party, but here's the link to the other pics and my thoughts. Donor car decision.. IMO, to fix the gold car's taillight will require pulling to get that outward buckle removed. BUT - I don't think that taillight area will ever be usable - so you'd need to splice in a...

I could use a fender like that eventually, too. AF is still fiddling around with that turbo setup? That's a throwback from the past for sure!

@RKC Dig around on here, there are some threads (some are exhaustive!) about the different colors. The one in post #8 by @1970FuryConv is detailed, mostly about the 'wrong' color for you, but does mention the turquuoise a bit. This turquoise MP paint has been discontinued to my knowledge...

As others have mentioned, once water can penetrate the vinyl thru a crack it's at risk for rust. If you were to spray the whole top, you'd need a plan for spraying at/near the stainless trim at the windows and gutter/driprail. IMO, that juncture would look like crap unless you masked very the...

You won't know until you dig into it. As there is no vinyl there, that helps things. You might be able to scrape it carefully, pick most of the rust away, and put on some brush-on touch-up paint. I have also had good luck with 3" sanding disks on a velcro pad, when used in a cordless drill, at...

I agree that goop will trap moisture and make it rust faster, but I'll also say that wire-brushing and coating it isn't a cure either. BTDT and the rust kept coming back. Rust at glass is the worst, several layers of steel spotwelded together like a sponge. IMO best thing to do is wire-brush...

The pipe construction/materials sound awesome for this use, and bypasses the rust concern. But I would not route it that way, here's my rationale: That's an awfully long run of pipe. It's going to route thru your tailpipe area (I assume you'll have dual exh) and make routing a tailpipe harder...

Also - Remember that you are now piping fuel thru the trunk area, and there is no fume/firewall between trunk area and the interior of the car. A standard tank location/fill outside of the trunk cavity has this covered. The Charger installation does also, but the components were...

I know that's where it has to go, but watch that spot! There's a brace that runs from the wheelhouse up to either the quarterpanel or Dutchman, and the trunk hinges in that area too. It might be tough to get around/through that. However you plan to do it, check for clearance with trunk open...

Also consider that you'll hafta be careful *every* time you fill up to not spill gas on the paint. The filler-neck-to-tank piping might be fabbable by a local muffler shop, then have them weld suitable flanges on both ends? Source as many of the Charger parts as you can to see what you can...

Trim around glass was typically stainless until sometime in the mid-late 70s. Dad's 77 Aspen was alum around glass.