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Yeah, master should be cheap enough not to risk it.

I have some variant of this where it’s like a socket sleeve and then another socket inside of it. That extra grip is how I got myself in trouble trying to hit 25ft-lb from the FSM on the first attempt.

KYB Excel-G from Rock Auto, they were only about $16 each, which I thought was reasonable.

Also special thanks to my small Milwaukee electric impact and long extension that made holding the top rear bolt possible while using the impact.

The shocks came with the second nut and no instructions. I figured if I didn’t use it I’d die and that’s the only spot for it. So there it is. The car seems to like functioning shocks, but it took so long to do it all the ice cream shops were closed by the time I hit the road. Better luck tomorrow.

I had some time this weekend so I swapped in new shocks on the Fury. Rears went in exactly to spec, although I almost couldn’t get the top bolts torqued down right enough with my my shortish 3/8 torque wrench. On the fronts it looks like the upper bushing is different in the FSM than what comes...

8 days on the stuff I sent in according to my notes. They will give you an ETA if you call.

On top of this if you have a set that is toast, send them in and they will copy them for you. Lack of an off the shelf pattern is only an issue if you also have nothing to copy. They did rear axel and master cylinder to proportioning valves for my 74 based on the crap, smashed, and rusty ones I...

Due to a lapse in attention to detail I installed the pan gasket flipped, which rendered the dipstick inoperable. Naturally I noticed this after I filled the oil, reinstalled the exhaust, and attached steering linkage. I figure the first attempt took me a total of 8hrs spread over multiple days...

The power ratchet works well, but has obvious size and weight issues compared to a standard wrench. It’s nice when you are in an odd position and need fasteners undone/done quickly. I used it here entirely on the takedown and not at all on the install as there was a lot of holding things up...

New pan installed, much easier going in than removing. Out of time for tonight, but the steering will go back in tomorrow. Hopefully that’s easier back in than out as well. If all goes well I’ll be able to hit the road tomorrow and burn through a tank of gas before I consider what to fix next.

I did t realize only the upper was plastic on OEM. Looks like this is the OEM upper gear. Ugh.

Pan is out, it was tight but I did not have to lift the engine (thank heavens. Maybe I don’t know what I’m looking at but I think the timing gear and chain have been replaced with a new set. If true, that would be swell.

Exhaust dropped and oil drained. The one pan bolt behind the oil filter is going to be a bugger. I’ll be back at it tomorrow.

New puller set off Amazon showed today. Wish I would have just started with this, but oh well. The adjustable claw like one was able to budge the linkage for the steering arm after 3 or 4 tries. Perhaps if I had a better feel for this or a better puller it would have went easier. On to trying to...

I started in on the work today. I didn’t feel great about being able to get the pan out without disconnecting the steering linkage. I got the tie rod/knuckle disconnected as well as the older arm with the smaller Performance Tool u-shaped puller. The c-shaped one was too small for anything...

Thank you all. Now that I look at it again, I do think the assembly will hang down far enough just by disconnecting the idler arm and steering arm. Hopefully I’ll have a chance to get after it in bits and pieces this week.

Finally had some time to get the car situation and get ready to address the beat up oil pan I posted about earlier. Going through the FSM for the procedure to remove it, I need to remove the steering linkage. In order to that it indicates I need to remove both tie rod ends and do this with a...

I’ve used both Dewey for a booster rebuild and in-line tube for hardline replicas. I would recommend both.

Thanks. Never mind then.