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That second smaller port off the check valve usually runs to the cruise control servo, but if you don't have cruise then just put a cap on it and your done. The fact that there is no cap on it now is why you have no power in your brake booster....all the vacuum is just leaking out and away. To...

Years ago I had black wall tires with big lettering that I painted in with just some simple white vinyl/rubber paint. Spray bomb but just sprayed into a small cup then used a small brush to paint the lettering....looked OK after 2-3 coats, but you really have to clean the tires well before hand...

Big John is correct on just replacing the old cables is the quickest adn easiest option...but having said that I have rejuventated old cables before. If they are not seized and have some movement and you can get them off without damage you curl them up and soak them in a pail of used oil for a...

I recently installed some Centric rear wheel cylinders I got locally on my Coronet and they are horrible units! The castings did not fit the drum backing plates and I had to spend a hour on each one with a flapper wheel and hand files to get them to fit properly, then more time to keep filing...

This for my 68 Coronet but since Ma' Mopar used the same basic 4 piston calipers on A/B/C-body cars, just different manufacturers I'm hoping someone may have some advice... Finally got my reseal kits for my brake calipers on my Coronet. Got the calipers off the car and pulled apart and have...

Ahh I see thank you for the clarification...I actually would have thought the piston and seals would have been different but clearly Ma Mopar decided to save money on those parts and make them the same between the B/C/E body lines and just have two different castings.

@david hill ...Thank you for the pics, but did you get those mixed on the left and right?? C-body calipers are slightly larger then the B/E body units and by the pics it appears the old crusty one is a C-body unit while the shiny new looking unit I would say is a B/E body unit. I went through...

I'm a tich skeptical of this statement, while they do have the same design the C-body stuff is just slightly larger and I think the corresponding pins are just a bit longer then the B/E body set-ups....but I could be wrong. ;)

And don't forget the caliper pin lube as well.

RWL tires on Steel wheels with dog dish caps! ;)

trick I've learned doing ball joints is to have a helper push down on the socket to keep it seated and square on the ball joint, otherwise it tends to twist and slip and eventually round out the sides on the Ball joint. And use a good dose of heat on the threads, and then a quality breaker bar...

If you have Dot 5 in your system can you flush the system and run Dot 3, or will all the hoses, calipers and wheel cylinders need to be replaced?

Those starwheel adjustment plates are specific right and left side....I've seen more then one vehicle with them switched, or two of the same side. There is a small notch on theback side that grabs the starwheel if it's installed correctly.

Hope you did one side at a time. With the stock bar and suspension hanging and the adjuster for the torsion bar backed off to remove the tension on the bar take note of where the bar aligned and where the adjustment tab is sitting within the control arm. Once you install the new bar try and get...

Take it down to the hardware store and find a piece of PVC or ABS pipe, or coupler that will fit over it, purchase said piece and then whack away. ;)

Dug through my bins and could not find a bolt like what you need..:(

When I strip down a parts car I take every last nut, bolt, clip I can before it goes to the wreckers....I will check my bins and see if i can find one. Did the nut get damaged too?

I've never understood why people do not use their E-brake systems, such and easy thing to do every time you stop. If you have ever had an automatic transmission apart and seen the small parking rod that locks the transmission you would not want to trust just that to hold your car in place...

Thank you for your back yard engineering expertise and checks....seems like you understand what is going on pretty well and I could deffer to your opinions and recommendations. :thumbsup:

IF you have a 2 or 3 arm bearing puller that can work too, just torque it up as much as you can, until you feel that the fingers might pop off, then hit it with more heat and the give the back side of the pitman arm a big whack with a big hammer, or a steel bar and hammer.