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I disagree with this statement....a good rad with a shroud, good 7 blade fan and a properly spaced fan will have no issue keeping a motor cool, adding a pusher fan to the front of the radiator just adds an element of air flow disruption before it passes through the radiator. Then there is the...

What type of water pump did you go with, just a stock replacement or some "high flow" unit? Also the serpentine system does it state if it over/under drives the water pump and alternator?

Think that is the low pressure side of the A/C compressor and the fluid leaking out is mostly the original mineral oil in the system. Have you had the system apart for any reason? Would probably benefit from a flushing on all the lines, condenser, evaporator core and then new R134 compatible...

You could always just use the other one you have by drilling out the other 1/2" port and then tap it for a 5/8 pipe thread.

My opinion is to Swap in the A/C dash and the A/C HVAC box and get the heater and vents all working, but you don't have to hook up any of the A/C stuff right now. Then down the road if you do decided you want A/C you can easily add the under hood components. Or if you sell the car you can...

Yup I've run the 7 blade with no clutch...noisy as all heck! But they do move a ton of air and keep things cool...with the proper fan shroud in place that is. Any reason you can't run a clutch on your car? Even the weird off set 5 blade fans used on the RWD mopars in the late 70's and into...

I used Bouchillon for the brackets and hoses and fittings on my under hood modern conversion on my 68 T/C wagon..the Sanden compressor I sourced my self, went with a SD7H15/HD that I found an older one in the original box off ebay for $75! Then went with the largest universal cross flow...

Have you done any carb work? I once hooked up the vacuum advance to a constant vacuum source off the TQ I was running and had over heating issues for days until I figured out what I had done wrong.

I was doing some tune up work on my 440 years ago and accidentally hooked up to a ported vacuum source for the vacuum advance so i was running too much timing for a couple days. Due to the timing I was overheating and puking fluid out and it took me a bit to figure it out, but once I did no...

Do you have a shroud? That is one of the biggest things for cooling, without it you can over heat easily at idle since the fant will just move air around in the engine compartment and not pull it through the radiator.

Few questions to help us determine what's going on and help you solve your issue. What radiator are you running....old, new, recored? Do you have a shroud? Also what kind of fan....4, 5, 6, 7, blade? Solid fixed fan or clutched? What temp termostat?

I did this conversion on my 68 T/C wagon many years ago now..7 years ago??..pretty much came out the same way as John's car did. To answer Anthony's question... yes the drier gets a low system pressure switch just like the original, on the top of the drier.

The manual shut off valves posted earlier are from early 70's dodge pick up trucks....Part # 84706 Advance Auto Parts - Down for Maintenance I have two of these on the heater lines on my 84 Dodge W350 crewcab cummins conversion. I also used a heater control valve, vacuum operated, from a...

I replaced mine with the same 2797 as well. I do find that it makes a bunch more noise then the old one, locks up at a lot cooler temps.

I;m not sure but going to guess OPR stands for Over Pressure Relief valve....? I converted the A/C system in my 70 sport fury with some Freeze12....all original with no change to the system, RV2 compressor, even the drier was still the OEM one. That system would frost the front window in the...

You can piece it together for a lot less then that. All these prices are from 5-6 years ago....I got a new Sanden compressor for $75...careful shopping on E-bay. New bracket for motor from Bouchillon was about $100, I also paid under $75 for the universal condenser, then the hoses and fitting...

When I was getting my wagon back on the road, after I purchased it with no motor and trans, I also upgraded the A/C system to the Sanden compressor. I too used the bracket kit from Bouchillon, and there under hood kit...with an extra foot or so of each hose. I also upgraded the condensor to a...

You should never use the temperature switch to run power to the fan....you will burn out that switch in short order. The switch should only be used as a trigger for a relay. The the relay will direct full power form the battery to the fan(s). I put electric fans on my crewcab...just for the...

I would say it's an old blower motor, and 47 year old wiring, and old switches putting too much draw on things. Converting to a relay system for the "high" setting on the blower motor would solve this issue. You would then have power going directly from the battery, to the blower motor, and...

Very nice 300 you ave there! Are you wanting to stay OEM/original? I not then you could always order up an all aluminum unit from Champion radiators out of California.