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I've had a claybar kit for a couple years and keep meaning to do the wagon and the coronet. Do you use one claybar per vehicle or can you do more than one?

The product I posted up does not need any special cleaning or surface prep...just clean out any old loose, cracking sealant then squeeze in the new sealant...done! Use a damp finger to clean up the excess and flow into nooks and crannies. I drive my truck year round in the cold north and this...

@thethee....I don't think that is the right stuff for your windshield, I've used stuff like that before and it dries and hardens to a pretty tough, but flexible state. You need something like what I posted...black tar type sealant that doesn't really get too hard once set up...still malleable...

most of the stuff out on the market today is for modern windshield...quick set in under an hour, then a hard urethane seal. I recently re-did the windshield on my old 84 W350 Cummins crewcab and had to search high and low to find an old school type of windshield sealant. This is the stuff I...

Read through this thread, ton of great info, but did not see one reference to using some #0000 steel wool to clean up the oxidizing on pieces. It finally clicked in my head a few years ago about using steel wool and the stuff saves so much time and effort when cleaning trim and other pieces...

Looks darn close, but the wheel lip moulding looks a tad different.

Looks like the trim from a 67 Newport, or T/C wagon?

I would use some brake cleaner on a clean white paper towel or rag.

I never though the anodizing would stiffen the material....interesting fact to store away in the Ol' grey matter. ;)

Years ago when I was restoring my 68 Coronet 500 convertible the lower rocker trim was beat to heck, and I could not find a decent replacement set so I was lucky enough to find an old timer locally who repaired, straightened and polished trim in his spare time. I wish I had photos of the before...

When I was removing the rear quarter PW mechanism on the 68 Coronet vert I restored... I was still pretty green to old cars....I removed the motor while I had my arm stuck in through the body and around the mechanism....well it came around like a guillotine and I was trapped in there for at...

I would see if there is a local shop that could scan your paint near the chips and mix you up some paint to match. I did the EW1 pre-mixed paint on my 73 RR years ago to touch up some paint down low on the rear quarters and it never matched well, since the paint had faded over the years.

I remember years ago someone grafted a 69 Roadrunner type air grabber hood to a 69(?) Fury hood....looked pretty good.

Made me think of the 73 trans am hood scoop....

I have never removed my rear window in my 68 T/C, but I have had it up/out when the tailgate was down. I had to throw the latches on both side since there is a lock out switch (?) that will not allow power to go to the motor unless the tailgate is up and latched properly. Even if I don't close...

Well I think he misplaced the decimal point.....;) Sure the 440 and other related parts are worth something, but the overall body of the car is not worth much, think $1000-$1500 tops and your mainly paying for drivetrain and a few components.

I would highly recommend SS1 yellow for your car. I loved it on my convertible, it was just "bright" enough to stand out, but not too bright a color to be offensive.

My 68 Coronet rag was that color from the factory. Believe it was called Sunfire Yellow, and was code SS-1.

Very nice....can't wait to see your fury all painted up! You'll have the only FP6 Frosted Teal Metallic Fury anywhere you go. ;)

Very cool....I have only come across a couple other FP6 cars, my old 70 Sport fury being one of them. It's a gorgeous colour, and the white top really makes it stand out! Do you have pics, or other info about your Fury....very interested in it's options. Sure you have seen my old SF.....but...