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I'd just use a thin washer and a cotter pin.

I got the bug from my grandfather...he never really had any old cars but he was an engineer and worked on all his own vehicles and farm equipment. When he retired he started wrenching on friends and family vehicles so I was around that growing up. My Father liked the older vehicles but...

Do you have a thread anywhere showing your 440/4spd Monaco? Maybe some history of the car and how it's optioned out? Super cool car! :thumbsup:

I agree that drum is probably beyond saving and will end up costing you a band and another tear down after a few hundred miles, I'm all for saving and using parts and keep the build costs downbut I think it might actually be quicker and cheaper to just replace it now. Just did a quick search on...

Use a soft wire wheel to clean it up then put them in a rust remove solution...Evapo-rust maybe, or look up electrolysis rust removal or using a Molasses/water mix.

To get an idea of value I'd use searchtempest and search "1968 Chrysler, 1968 300" etc, and see what people are asking for their cars. Also look on E-bay and FB market place searching all over north america. I know you are not using it now but is there any reason you can't hold onto it? I...

Aww that sucks man....In the future bring a ratchet and socket and pop off the pan before you hand over any cash, if it's not clean with no rust or debris then walk away.

This from your "new" transmission? Looks like it's sat with water in it for some time and if that's what the valve body looks like the rest is probably worse! I wouldn't even try to run that without a rebuild...so what was wrong with your original transmission?

Your 318 will have a steel crank or internally balanced motor, the 74/75 transmission you just purchased the stock converter would be for a cast crank motor so you would need to follow this advice....

The 66 SS1 pale yellow had a chrysler paint code of BAY1Y1, the same code SS1 Yellow on my 68 Coronet is DAY1Y2

I had to do a master cylinder and brake booster on my daughter 1988 Aries, as well as replace the power steering pump. The brake booster took a couple hours, master cylinder under 30 minutes but that power steering pump was a nightmare! I spent about 6.5 hours doing that job, Horrible...

I've seen threads where people have used the "new" parts as rebuilds for their original calipers...remove the pistons and seals and swap to their OEM units.

A lot of people have them off the car when it's being painted and then either don't have a paint code to get more paint mixed to paint the tag, or just don't care if it's body colour so just paint it bare metal grey and put it on the car. As long as the tag is present I personally don't care...

I've come across many that has gotten a fine layer of dust and debris down inside...hitting them with some PB Blaster usually helps free them up.

I think you have some bigger issues if the lug nuts are coming loose after only a couple miles...and this is happening more then once! How did you install the new wheel studs, Maybe they got stretched? Also how old are your lugnuts, are they good quality or cheap/sketchy off shore units?

Little trick I use to protect my radiators from damage when removing/installing the fan...slip some cardboard down between the rad and the fan and then if the fan falls off, or is stubborn and doesn't want to let go and then sudden pops off, you won't crunch any fins on the rad. ;)

Been wanting one for a couple years now and been waiting patiently for the local parts house to have sand blasting cabinets on sale, well they just went on sale for over 40% off so I picked up a large standing unit, just spent about 6 hours assembling the darn thing, so many pieces and about 150...

Would be your TRM codes... T - E = Economy interior package R - 1 = Cloth/vinyl bench seat M - Q= Turquoise colour So most likely had a matching turquoise carpet.

The 66-70 B-Body 4 spd hump is similar. There was a member here on the board a couple years ago who made one work and posted up the pics and info on what he did on the modifications. Just spent an hour searching for it...it was @rd92west who did the conversion.... 66 to 68 trans hump

The key is only used to lower the rear glass, it has nothing to do iwth opening/closing the tailgate. There is a latch on the top of the tailgate in the center that you use to relaease the latches on the tailgate. You can't bring the tailgate down until the glass is inside the tailgate.