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The electric fam on the outside of the condenser will go a long way in keeping it cool.

I agree in part. In my 50 years of turning wrenches, anytime I removed an engine, (with or without the trans), I always used bolt locations in the cylinder heads.

Totally safe. I have done it many times. When you get everything disconnected, you will have to lift the engine very high to clear the trans. Use a helper, and make sure the hoist is set correctly. If you have the sheetmetal removed, PIECE OF CAKE.

AND WHATEVER YOU DO, DO NOT HOLD THE STREERING WHEEL WHEN YOU START THE ENGINE. I found out the hard way years ago and almost broke my wrist.

Or Murray Park.

Let's try to clear some of this up. Chrysler changed the spindles mid year 1972. So 1972 models had them also. The best way to find out is to mount the 1973 inner wheel bearing on the spindle. If it goes on without any slop, you have late 1972. If it is real loose you have the early ones. The...

Chrysler no, Fury maybe front, Dodge maybe front, not rears.

All factory intake manifolds for street use have the heat crossover passage.

There is an awful lot of thick metal in that front end. I agree with Dave, looks like fender, inner and outer fender, hood, door and front bumper. Hope you heal soon, good luck. Bill

Sears has slowly gone downhill since the 70's. Most of the stores in the Chicagoland area have closed. Trying to shop online with them is a joke. They are one company I will not be sorry to see go.

I know you like to do the work yourself, BUT, convertible tops can be very tricky. I would invest in getting done by a good shop. (I have screwed one up myself, wasn't pretty).

As stated above, most of the mechanics between the two are the same. On the bad side NONE of the body panels will interchange if you wanted to use it for parts for Tilly.

It stinks about your car. I would do like suggested, and try to find a parts car. You won't know the complete damage until you take it apart. If the stub frame is not to bad, a good frame shop could pull it back into place, less work than replacing. I hope you had an agreed insurance policy on...

Good looking job.

I see a lot of spots on the rear of the latch pin that could make it hang up. Try sanding both sides smooth, and cover it with grease.

The grease Chrysler used 60 years ago, just did not stand up to the test of time. It likes to act like a glue. As others have said already, remove the inner panel and sprat the latch with oil.

I went through this on the 300 I just sold. The mounting of the "B" body unit is way different than your 300, I would not recommend it. The 1970 and up booster is way to large, your shift linkage will hit, and you will not be able to use "2" or "1". I say find the correct unit, brakes are one...

You got my last one.

Did you make it home yet? How was the trip back?

Do you like your new car Green Hornet?