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https://www.glclassiccars.com/details/used-1970-dodge-polara/102762588

SOLD!

Is this a new one ? , could not find the vin-code here. $19.995,- https://classiccars.com/listings/view/1837404/1970-dodge-polara-for-sale-in-hilton-new-york-14468

Looking to purchase a center console for my 2dr hardtop 71 300 Preferably local pick but show me what ya got Located in Sacramento/Bay Area

Those switches can be finicky. You might need take it apart and clean the contacts. There is a procedure in the FSM on how to jump the switch pins to get power to the motor and check the action and test the switch. There is a member here that rebuilds the switches as well, @Devinism.

Drum or Disc Brake Spindles? 1968 disc brake spindles or the 70-72 disc brake spindles or 73 spindles?

I am looking for a set of spindle for 1968 plymouth fury. Thanks, Timon

Still pretty psyched that the hood will fit on without any holes... I think I may have to source a pair of those outrageous antennas for the trunk area.... Are those repop'd anywhere??

These might help Alan

Join me in welcoming @MoparguyRon to FCBO.

Why the need to replace the rod bearings in the first place? Excessive wear/clearance, gouging, erosion, bell ended?

It's too bad you're on the other side of the world from me. I have a complete 383 on an engine stand that ran really well before I pulled it from my 66 300 to replace it with a correct 440. Other than a carburetor, it's totally complete.

We track Polaras around here. Not many that slip under our radar.

It was! How’d you know?

I know what advancing the cam timing does, I just don't think it is something I would do on a bone stock engine with miles on it.

The cam timing advance is to provide better low end torque, with retard providing better high rpm power. Mine is an old mouse, and I decided to advance a taste. They go up to about 12 each way on the new gears.

OK, this is a lot. I had mentioned in another post that I would ask the friend trans builder about the OEM converter, which I did. He said, should be no problem, very stout converters. OK, this engine is stock, as far as I know, no converter, no cam changes. And, an interesting point on...

When replacing rod bearings on an engine that you are not removing the pistons from, you are better off doing one at a time. It cuts down on the chances of mixing them up. I know this is no help to you now, but the advice above is good. It should be able to get you back on track.

Thanks for the reply, The car sat for a long time when I got it out of the barn and never checked the seat, I just went into the restoration of it. Yes, all grounds are good and clean. I am going to pull the motors tonight.

Are there any performance changes? Does it have headers, Alum. manifold, bigger carb, etc? If not why did you want to advance the cam timing?