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I have a 66 Fury convertible (III) that I bought a year ago previous owner was going to part it out, he mangled the rear cutting the trunk and rails out, the fire wall been cut and brake pedal mount been cut no wiring at all. I noticed it has a ford rear 4 link suspension and front K frame...

I dug out a spare door belt molding I had. I measured the opening for the clip. It measures .28" (just over 1/4") I ordered a few of them that appear to be just under 5/16" wide and will fit a 3/16" hole. I will let you know if they work. Probably be a week or so. Wish me luck.

If you find something please let me know

Sounds like a great color combination - hopefully it wasn't "flipped" and will show up (at a much higher price) on some dealer's web-page - time will tell............

you do an "Historical Aerial" on it?

Whoa! I got caught off guard! Was thinking it was in May. Don't think I'll be there.

That is weird, but if it were a VW, Audi, or a Porsche it would be correct! :p

Early building was torn down sometime between 1998 and 2003 New build was under construction in 2016 Alan

My understanding is you dial in as much + caster as it will give you first and then hope to have some left when you set camber and toe. It's not unheard of for caster to go negative after setting camber to spec. I think to keep these boats centered up requires a lot more caster than spec'd...

Something like this, while it might not be your problem, isn't good on any level. That's the very first thing I would fix... and if it cures the issue, that's fantastic. If it doesn't, that hose needed to be fixed anyway. I always look at the simple stuff first...

See if it has a little removable tin bucket with a gasket. If it does, leave the bucket and gasket bolted down.

the kit referenced in #32 has a knock off control box - the switching transistor is fake, real switching transistors have an insulator plate that is visible. There are other excellent sources of information besides here so come out of your parents basement and see the world.:eek: as far as...

@policefury1 -- d you happen to have photos of PL41G9F250903 and / or PM41L0F263197 ?

I just saw this on a You tube video from Uncle Tony's garage. As I was looking closer at the steering system I saw that the pressure side hose is crushed where it makes the bend coming out of the pump. I don't think this will cause my issue but it does need addressing. Some one in the past...

Answered in the other post but I run a 12V from the Ballast Resistor run side to the carb. The choke well is left open.

As was mentioned above I ran the electric choke feed from the run side of the ballast to the carb choke. The old thermostat well is left open.

I am not sure what the manifold looks like relative to the choke well on a 1975 model. Photo might help....................................

Thank you for the update! So, I guess the 3/8" measurement they show on their ebay auction is not correct. I am glad I had enough of the original clips when I did my car years ago. I think I still have an extra door belt molding. I am gonna visit my local paint store to see what they can come up...

Yeah I tried this too! :rolleyes::)

Two more Newark plant vins. PL41G9F 250903 this was a 1969 Penn State Fury police car-parted. .PM41loF 263197 383 two barrel parted... mk