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Moby

1965 Chrysler 300 2 door hard top w/383 and a column shift automatic

General Information

I recently found this car about a half an hour from our house outside Enumclaw Washington.
It wasn’t running and from the look of the fuel tank it has been a looong time since it has. I would guess 25+ years.
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the previous owner is a nice guy. He delivered it to me!
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I don’t think I was wrong to change the sender with the tank.....
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I went through the carburetor.
The points had 5ohms resistance across them so, no spark. A drag between them with a jewlers file fixed that situation.
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No fuel to the carburetor. The fuel pump was sucking on the carb and pushing toward the tank!
Not a Chrysler part, I feel sorry for the last guy that tried to get it running.
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I stuck one end of a rubber hose into a can of supreme and the other end to the new fuel pump, turned the key after I made sure the gas was headed toward the carburetor and she started up and purred like a 383 Chrysler!
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There’s lots more to do.
The brakes leak from everywhere so I’m going through those from front to back.
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The power windows don’t move... more to come on that one.
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I friend went through the radiator for me and I’m flushing the rest of the system and replacing the water pump and thermostat while I’m there.
The power steering pump leaks. I have the seals in hand to fix that. The alternator was louder than the engine so it got one of those. I kept the core, it may be original but I need to look closer to be sure.
I can’t wait to get in on the road! I wonder if the transmission works....
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Comments

Going by the tail lights it's either a 65 or 66 Chrysler. Hang on tight to the carburetor it is a carter ATB. It is a better carb to me than the AVS which is what the Edelbrock carbs are based on. From what pictures there are its a nice looking car. If it is a New Yorker it should have a 440 engine standard. If it is a Newport then it would be a 383. Need better pictures. When changing wheel size be sure to change the speedo gear if necessary, as it knock off your speedometer reading. Tire size also affects which gear to use for speedo. Change the tranny and filter and if possible the torque converter (still can on the old ones, someone put in a new style converter). The old style converter I have dealt with has a screw in plug on the converter for draining the old fluid (wish the new one had the same plug, could completely drain the system). Then refill with 5 quarts ATF or ATF+4 if just pan removed or 9 quarts ATF fluid if pan and torque converter drained. Unless the transmission has shavings in the pan it should run for you. Shavings in the pan mean an overhaul is the prudent course of action. The 727 transmission is a tough transmission. If it is the 904 tranny the weak spot on those is the torque converter ears as they have a tendency to crack under heavy torque. I had a 1978 Dodge Magnum that went through 2 torque converters before my wife made me get rid of it. Now she wishes we had kept it and found a 727 tranny for a small block. Good luck with your project.
 
Looks like a really nice car. Might want to put a timing chain in it while you have the radiator and water pump out, you are already half way there.

Dave
 
Going by the tail lights it's either a 65 or 66 Chrysler. Hang on tight to the carburetor it is a carter ATB. It is a better carb to me than the AVS which is what the Edelbrock carbs are based on. From what pictures there are its a nice looking car. If it is a New Yorker it should have a 440 engine standard. If it is a Newport then it would be a 383. Need better pictures. When changing wheel size be sure to change the speedo gear if necessary, as it knock off your speedometer reading. Tire size also affects which gear to use for speedo. Change the tranny and filter and if possible the torque converter (still can on the old ones, someone put in a new style converter). The old style converter I have dealt with has a screw in plug on the converter for draining the old fluid (wish the new one had the same plug, could completely drain the system). Then refill with 5 quarts ATF or ATF+4 if just pan removed or 9 quarts ATF fluid if pan and torque converter drained. Unless the transmission has shavings in the pan it should run for you. Shavings in the pan mean an overhaul is the prudent course of action. The 727 transmission is a tough transmission. If it is the 904 tranny the weak spot on those is the torque converter ears as they have a tendency to crack under heavy torque. I had a 1978 Dodge Magnum that went through 2 torque converters before my wife made me get rid of it. Now she wishes we had kept it and found a 727 tranny for a small block. Good luck with your project.
It’s a none letter 300 with a column shift 727 like in the 64 push button set up....
 
Going by the tail lights it's either a 65 or 66 Chrysler. Hang on tight to the carburetor it is a carter ATB. It is a better carb to me than the AVS which is what the Edelbrock carbs are based on. From what pictures there are its a nice looking car. If it is a New Yorker it should have a 440 engine standard. If it is a Newport then it would be a 383. Need better pictures. When changing wheel size be sure to change the speedo gear if necessary, as it knock off your speedometer reading. Tire size also affects which gear to use for speedo. Change the tranny and filter and if possible the torque converter (still can on the old ones, someone put in a new style converter). The old style converter I have dealt with has a screw in plug on the converter for draining the old fluid (wish the new one had the same plug, could completely drain the system). Then refill with 5 quarts ATF or ATF+4 if just pan removed or 9 quarts ATF fluid if pan and torque converter drained. Unless the transmission has shavings in the pan it should run for you. Shavings in the pan mean an overhaul is the prudent course of action. The 727 transmission is a tough transmission. If it is the 904 tranny the weak spot on those is the torque converter ears as they have a tendency to crack under heavy torque. I had a 1978 Dodge Magnum that went through 2 torque converters before my wife made me get rid of it. Now she wishes we had kept it and found a 727 tranny for a small block. Good luck with your project.
383 v8 in there
 
Going by the tail lights it's either a 65 or 66 Chrysler. Hang on tight to the carburetor it is a carter ATB. It is a better carb to me than the AVS which is what the Edelbrock carbs are based on. From what pictures there are its a nice looking car. If it is a New Yorker it should have a 440 engine standard. If it is a Newport then it would be a 383. Need better pictures. When changing wheel size be sure to change the speedo gear if necessary, as it knock off your speedometer reading. Tire size also affects which gear to use for speedo. Change the tranny and filter and if possible the torque converter (still can on the old ones, someone put in a new style converter). The old style converter I have dealt with has a screw in plug on the converter for draining the old fluid (wish the new one had the same plug, could completely drain the system). Then refill with 5 quarts ATF or ATF+4 if just pan removed or 9 quarts ATF fluid if pan and torque converter drained. Unless the transmission has shavings in the pan it should run for you. Shavings in the pan mean an overhaul is the prudent course of action. The 727 transmission is a tough transmission. If it is the 904 tranny the weak spot on those is the torque converter ears as they have a tendency to crack under heavy torque. I had a 1978 Dodge Magnum that went through 2 torque converters before my wife made me get rid of it. Now she wishes we had kept it and found a 727 tranny for a small block. Good luck with your project.
'65 will still be a 413, '66 will be a 440 if it is a New Yorker or a 300. Newport will have a 383 as std engine. No 904 transmission behind mopar big blocks. No photo of front grill, but this looks to be a '65 to me and the tail lights are wrong for a '66

Dave
 
Looks like a really nice car. Might want to put a timing chain in it while you have the radiator and water pump out, you are already half way there.

Dave
It’s a Chrysler 300 with a 383 and a 727
 
While you are doing brakes, be sure to get rid of all the old hoses as they are likely rotted from sitting so long. Master cylinder is also going to be shot. With everything new on the brake hydraulics, this would be a good time to consider upgrading to the DOT 5 silicone fluid, gets rid of the problems with corrosion from conventional brake fluid. Also consider going to a dual pot master for safety reasons. www.inlinetube.com can set you up with the necessary tubing to make the dual pot conversion. The dual MC will bolt up to your existing booster if it still works. You may also need to rebuild the booster if it has gotten brake fluid inside from a leaky master.

Dave
 
While you are doing brakes, be sure to get rid of all the old hoses as they are likely rotted from sitting so long. Master cylinder is also going to be shot. With everything new on the brake hydraulics, this would be a good time to consider upgrading to the DOT 5 silicone fluid, gets rid of the problems with corrosion from conventional brake fluid. Also consider going to a dual pot master for safety reasons. www.inlinetube.com can set you up with the necessary tubing to make the dual pot conversion. The dual MC will bolt up to your existing booster if it still works. You may also need to rebuild the booster if it has gotten brake fluid inside from a leaky master.

Dave
I think I’ll start by getting it all to function.
After that I may want to do what you suggest.
Your right about the old master. I replaced and it was completely shot.
 
Looks like a really nice car. Might want to put a timing chain in it while you have the radiator and water pump out, you are already half way there.

Dave
That's unusual as my wife said the 300's came out with 440 engine. Look for the boss on the left front of the engine or measure across the bass of the valve covers 383-13inches, 440 14 inches, also 383 no boss.
 
While you are doing brakes, be sure to get rid of all the old hoses as they are likely rotted from sitting so long. Master cylinder is also going to be shot. With everything new on the brake hydraulics, this would be a good time to consider upgrading to the DOT 5 silicone fluid, gets rid of the problems with corrosion from conventional brake fluid. Also consider going to a dual pot master for safety reasons. www.inlinetube.com can set you up with the necessary tubing to make the dual pot conversion. The dual MC will bolt up to your existing booster if it still works. You may also need to rebuild the booster if it has gotten brake fluid inside from a leaky master.

Dave
Might be wise to have the brake booster checked. May have to have it rebuilt if not available. I am having to send mine into Cardon to see if it can be repaired due to it being a discontinued part
 
While you are doing brakes, be sure to get rid of all the old hoses as they are likely rotted from sitting so long. Master cylinder is also going to be shot. With everything new on the brake hydraulics, this would be a good time to consider upgrading to the DOT 5 silicone fluid, gets rid of the problems with corrosion from conventional brake fluid. Also consider going to a dual pot master for safety reasons. www.inlinetube.com can set you up with the necessary tubing to make the dual pot conversion. The dual MC will bolt up to your existing booster if it still works. You may also need to rebuild the booster if it has gotten brake fluid inside from a leaky master.

Dave
Cardon't is the worst rebuilder on the planet. You will be lucky to get one in three of their units that will actually work. Send it to a quality rebuilder like www.boosterdeweyexchange.com. The get it right and do high quality work.

Dave
 
While you are doing brakes, be sure to get rid of all the old hoses as they are likely rotted from sitting so long. Master cylinder is also going to be shot. With everything new on the brake hydraulics, this would be a good time to consider upgrading to the DOT 5 silicone fluid, gets rid of the problems with corrosion from conventional brake fluid. Also consider going to a dual pot master for safety reasons. www.inlinetube.com can set you up with the necessary tubing to make the dual pot conversion. The dual MC will bolt up to your existing booster if it still works. You may also need to rebuild the booster if it has gotten brake fluid inside from a leaky master.

Dave
What’s the fun in that? I’ll rebuild it myself if it ends up needing it.
Thanks for the link though. I’ll use them if my unit is pitted or something.
 
Looks like a really nice car. Might want to put a timing chain in it while you have the radiator and water pump out, you are already half way there.

Dave
I’ll look for the boss and the measurements.
The build tag on the firewall indicated 383 and the carburetor tag numbers match for a 383 as well. I haven’t had a direct way to check the engine until now so I’ll check it out.
 
Looks like a really nice car. Might want to put a timing chain in it while you have the radiator and water pump out, you are already half way there.

Dave
Thanks for the info Jim.
13” across at the base of the valve covers between the heads, no boss that I can see but it’s still a greasy mess.
It’s a none letter car so maybe that’s why the “small” engine...
 

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Moby
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