68bbwagon
Member
I'm looking for a good alternator for my car. Just tired of seeing the headlights dim atnight when I come to a stop light haha. Theres a couple I've been looking at on summit just don't know which is the best.
100 or 140 amp alternator?
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Newp
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The Regulator (assuming you battery is good) is more likely your problem.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Don't buy a specialty one-size-fits all with enough adapters and spacers.
68bbwagon
Member
I never thought about the regulator. Went right over my head. Ill look into it. But I do eventually still want a bigger alternator.
70NPORT
Old Man with a Hat
Becareful. Surpassing the factory rating for your car might not turn out be good for the electrical system in the long run. Does your car have A/C?
If you go with the Chrysler 100 amp alternator you'll need all the mounting brackets and belts too.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
WARNING! It's a freakin monster.
68bbwagon
Member
Yes my car has the factory A/C. Is there any other way to where I don't have the big monster thing attached to the front of my motor haha.
Not if you want the Chrysler 100 amp.
WARNING! It's a freakin monster.
Was that motor the green RV motor?
Newp
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A local rebuilder in your area should be able to increase the output of our existing alt.
Unless your Wagon has a snow plow or you have some ''Thump'in'' sound system, you should never need a 100+ amp charging system. :snow plow: :icon_super:
The only reason the Formals used them was for the electric rear window defog.
Unless your Wagon has a snow plow or you have some ''Thump'in'' sound system, you should never need a 100+ amp charging system. :snow plow: :icon_super:
The only reason the Formals used them was for the electric rear window defog.
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wihaltom
Member
I had the same problem of the headlights going dim at idle.
I put together a relay system so the power for the headlights doesn't come from the headlight switch.
With the relays interposing between the switch and the headlights, the switch just activates the relays and the power for the lights comes straight from the battery through a fusible link.
Now my headlights are at least 30 to 40% brighter and don't dim when the engine is idling.
And the whole system only cost me about $25.
There are probably kits available but I did my own.
Everything is available at most auto parts stores.
wihaltom
Member
I also have replaced the mechanical regulator with an electronic regulator and the charge current and voltage is much more stable.
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