1961 Polara- Brakes lockup

Cody

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Brakes will lock up and not release. Right now the car needs the brakes bleed to get it to the point where they will lock up. A new wheel cylinder exploded, it was put bake together and brakes now need bleeding.

What would cause all this? What else is there to replace? If converted to disc brakes can I bypass all of problems? Thanks
 
61 Polaras have total contact brakes that are a self energizing type to reduce pedal pressures and generate more forceful braking. That design brings with it many drawbacks. If a vehicle has been sitting in a humid climate or just sitting a long time at all, the brakes will become touchy and lock up when you apply them when moving forward. The only way to reasonably release them is to just back up. But as soon as you apply the brakes again when going forward, they will do the same thing. Also, adjusting those brakes is unique and you need to read a service manual to get it right - the rears are not adjusted the same way the fronts are. Assuming the brakes will release when backing up, you should remove the wheels and then sand the brake shoes to remove the accumulated rust debris and then they will likely function OK again. Of course getting the rear drums off is always no fun on these models since they have tapered rear axle shafts whereon the drums are secured on with a large nut. They are a ***** to get off under normal circumstances as it is, so be sure to get a good special tool to remove them. The factory puller was not very good but there is a guy on the Chrysler 300 Club International, Inc that makes a special tool that isn't that expensive and relatively effective compared to the factory tool since the better tool more evenly spreads out the load when removing the drums.

One option is to replace them with regular drum brakes from a later model year full size Dodge, Chrysler or Plymouth that has regular drum brakes standard - total contact brakes went away after the 1962 models, so getting a brake set up from a later model full size car would be preferable since all you problems would go away. You could also install disc brakes from a couple of vendors and have an even more reliable system, but that is a more expensive proposition. The effectiveness of the disc brake setups that would work with your factory 14" wheels are really no better than the drum setups since the rotors are constrained in size compared to other rotors available with 15" wheels for example, but going to 15" wheels means you can not use your factory wheel covers if that is important to you. But disc brakes are substantially more reliable, thus safer than total contact or drum brakes.
 
Brakes will lock up and not release. Right now the car needs the brakes bleed to get it to the point where they will lock up. A new wheel cylinder exploded, it was put bake together and brakes now need bleeding.

What would cause all this? What else is there to replace? If converted to disc brakes can I bypass all of problems? Thanks
If it's both brakes, I'd be suspicious of the brake hose. They sometimes close up internally and won't let the pressure release.
 
You might also want to check the travel rod on the master cylinder, if it is set too long, the brakes will not release properly. The wheel cylinder exploding is probably a defective unit, most are now made in China and their quality control is all but non existent. If any of the brake shoes were exposed to brake fluid because of a leaking wheel cylinder, be sure to replace them as the full contact brakes were touchy to begin with and any sticking of the shoes on the drums because of contimination makes the problem even worse.

Dave
 
You mentioned that a wheel cylinder exploded, did the piston come out of the bore or did the casting break? A piston thrown from the bore is caused by the actuator pin missing or not seated against the shoe. This can also be the result of brakes that are grossly under adjusted. Brakes that are way under adjusted will also cause a very low pedal. Either condition allows the piston in the cylinder to move more that it should and potentially blow out of the cylinder. If the casting broke, that is just crappy Chicom quality.

Dave
 
G'Day Fellas,
A little off Topic I know but in regards to having to run 15" Rims to Fit Disc Brakes, we found the easy solution to the Hubcap Problem was to put a set of 14" Rims into a Lathe & machine the Lip off the Rim & Star Weld it to the 15" Rims. Paint the bit that shows Black & it matches the Tyre.
Regards Tony.M
 
G'Day Fellas,
A little off Topic I know but in regards to having to run 15" Rims to Fit Disc Brakes, we found the easy solution to the Hubcap Problem was to put a set of 14" Rims into a Lathe & machine the Lip off the Rim & Star Weld it to the 15" Rims. Paint the bit that shows Black & it matches the Tyre.
Regards Tony.M

One of the wheel manufacturers (Stockton Wheels??) makes a new 15" wheel that pretty much duplicates what you are describing. The only downside is that the gap between a white wall (assuming you have them) is wider between the whitewall and the wheel cover. So appearance wise, it is somewhat of a negative - but maybe worth it still given the better braking performance with a bigger rotor than 14" rims will allow.

It seems the aftermarket wheel manufacturers have recently generally not been doing well and have sold out to guys with no experience, so dealing with them might be hit and miss. All the old guys are gone now it seems...................................
 
G'Day Fellas,
A little off Topic I know but in regards to having to run 15" Rims to Fit Disc Brakes, we found the easy solution to the Hubcap Problem was to put a set of 14" Rims into a Lathe & machine the Lip off the Rim & Star Weld it to the 15" Rims. Paint the bit that shows Black & it matches the Tyre.
Regards Tony.M
any pictures of this?
 
Unfortunately Not, It was back in the Days when we used Film in our Cameras and never thought of taking Workshop Piccies. (Oh How I Love These Modern Times) You can take a 1,000 Shots & throw away all the Bad Ones & it doesn't cost a Cent more. LOL If You would like a more Detailed Description I can only say that (And Forgive me for this) we machined the Lip off Ford 14" Rims in the Lathe and then used a Mig Welder to "Spot Weld" to a Dodge Rim in about 12 places. Care was taken to make sure that they sat "True" on the Rim. The Last Vehicle we did was a 1959 Custom Royal, the Fella that owned it wanted 15" Rims Plus he was tired of the Spinners flying off & nearly killing bystanders as he Drove down the road. (Those Caps weighed a Ton) And of course it was no fun having to drive to a Show with Caps in the Boot, Fit them for the Show & then have to put them back in the Boot for the trip home. Nowadays you can buy the Reproductions with built in Retaining Locks, a Brilliant Idea. The Reason for using Ford rims was that they had very good Rollover on the Hubcap Retaining Lip. Any rim with a good rollover would do & it's better than sacrificing Mopar rims. LOL Regards Tony.M
 
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