1965-66 sport fury

Restoration

  1. LostinFL

    LostinFL New Member

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    05451D97-0888-41D1-95EB-27F742ACFDA4.jpeg DF12A2BD-509B-42B9-B1B7-F54CF084C040.jpeg 6C599D5F-F05B-4123-849E-490AD89686C8.jpeg BFEB4F98-0726-4E21-AD2B-A66EEF370F85.jpeg Hello folks! So I bought a Plymouth sport fury 1965-66 this week! Runs great! But is missing the air filter I cannot seem to find online a parts manual that can tell me which one to order. From what I’ve gathered on this forum is that it is a 318 poly can anyone help with what size to order part number or what seems to be missing! I might have bitten more than I can Chew!

    And by the pictures provided can anyone tell me what else to do?



    Thank you in advance

    LostinFla
     
  2. LostinFL

    LostinFL New Member

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    Forgive my grammer!
     
  3. commando1

    commando1 Mr. Normal FCBO Gold Member

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    :D
     
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  4. LostinFL

    LostinFL New Member

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    Glad we all have a sense of humor here
     
  5. Davea Lux

    Davea Lux Senior Member FCBO Gold Member

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    You have an after market carb and manifold, so a part number is not going to help. Most any air cleaner for an AFB carb will fit, or you can measure the seating ring on the top of the carb and just go with a universal unit from Autozone. The stock carb for the 318 Poly engine is a Carter BBD 2BBL unit on a cast manifold.

    Dave
     
  6. LostinFL

    LostinFL New Member

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    Help with this part number D9DC2BC7-964A-4C94-8BC5-1D38B9BD53A9.jpeg
     
  7. Ross Wooldridge

    Ross Wooldridge Senior Member FCBO Gold Member

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    The car is cool! Well done!!

    The 318 Poly is a great motor, and will be very pleasant to drive. You have special bits like chromed valve covers and the much covetted Weiand 4 barrel intake manifold. Nice score! Measure the diametre of the carb and the distance between the carb and the hood when closed and you should be able to find an air cleaner that fits. Double check that the transmission to carb kickdown linkage is properly adjusted, as if NOT can quickly result in transmission trouble. This is NOT an option.

    I see a vacuum port in front of the carb that should be plugged or eliminated.

    Another excellent upgrade somebody has already done for you is the dual curcuit brake master cylinder. Safety first! 67 Fury drum brake master cylinder is a good replacement.

    Here's a short check list of things to go over:

    Download a factory service manual.

    Have a qualified mechanic go through the braking system front to back, and replace any suspect components (wheel cylinders, adjuster kits, brake shoes and drums). The master looks crusty - if it checks out OK, fine, but it's an easy replacement - just use a 1967 Fury drum brake master and it will bolt right up. Flush and replace the brake fluid. Consider replacing all rubber flex lines. Blerd the system properly after replacing any brake system hydraulic component or the master.

    Consider a front disc brake upgrade for more safety - easy bolt in stuff. Good articles here on how to.

    Have a qualified mechanic inspect and replace any steering components if required. Ball joints, tie rods, pitman and idler arms.

    Check the allignment.

    Check and replace if uncertain ALL rubber hoses and belts - fuel, radiator, heater hoses, fan belts, power steering pressure and return lines if so eqipped. Check the radiator for corrosion - recore if suspect. Flush and replace all fluids. It looks like you have a 26" rad in place if what should be a 22" rad, with an incirrect upper rad hose... no biggie, but it suggests other "cobbled together" things.

    New fuel filter. New fuel pump.

    Rebuild the carb.

    New spark plugs, plug wires, and consider upgrading to a simple electronic ignition system like Pertronix for hassle free driving.

    Look for any tired, pinched, cut, corroded, cobbled together or otherwise suspect wiring underhood and under the dash.

    Check and clean the bulkhead connectors, and consider the M.A.D. Bypass upgrade - search this forum for the process. This is a big safety upgrade to reduce the chance of an electrical fire - the bulkhead and alternator arrangement is a weak point.

    Check and replace if required the steering column rubber flex joint (under the round cover near the firewall).

    Byy the $20 kit and rebuild your steering column sliding joint near the steering box.

    Check your tires are good and enjoy!

    Most important - ask any and all questions here - the silliest question is the one you didn't ask.

    More pics of your car please!
     
    Last edited: Nov 2, 2018
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  8. LostinFL

    LostinFL New Member

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    713CAE58-2765-4110-8978-73550F616D30.jpeg Ross thank you!!! Is this master compatiable??? Or is there a brand I should order from

    Thank you for all of the advice! You should have seen me scattering around looking to write things down! You’re the best!
     
  9. Ross Wooldridge

    Ross Wooldridge Senior Member FCBO Gold Member

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    That looks OK - Rock Auto will have the right one. Look for 1967 Fury Drum Brake Master Cylinder
     
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  10. LostinFL

    LostinFL New Member

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    The registration for the car states it’s a 1965 but on the forum people have told me it’s a 66? Does this matter?
     
  11. Ross Wooldridge

    Ross Wooldridge Senior Member FCBO Gold Member

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    It does sometimes. Show us pics and we can tell you for sure. VIN will also tell.
     
  12. LostinFL

    LostinFL New Member

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    B4E8A23F-0756-4EC3-9850-268407F6D5EA.jpeg Will this help?
     
  13. Ross Wooldridge

    Ross Wooldridge Senior Member FCBO Gold Member

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    VIN should be on the door post. That's the data plate which shows options etc.

    Show us pictures of the whole car, we can tell better that way!
     
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  14. Polara_500

    Polara_500 Senior Member FCBO Gold Member

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    Before you buy another master cylinder, check to see if you still have drum brakes in front. Since the master has been upgraded it's possible someone also changed over to disk brakes and that would want a different master cylinder.
     
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  15. Ross Wooldridge

    Ross Wooldridge Senior Member FCBO Gold Member

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    True enough.
     
  16. CBODY67

    CBODY67 Senior Member

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    As for the "changes" to the engine. A Weiand 4bbl intake replaced the stock 2bbl manifold. Looks like an earlier Carter AFB. The carb part number should be XXXX, sometimes followed by an "S", sometimes not. Get into a carb kit listing to check for the general application for the carb. IF the carb's application is prior to the 1968 model year, then the air cleaner mounting circle will be smaller than those from 1968 and newer. The newer ones are the same as the popular Holley 4bbls, then and now, which means almost any open element air cleaner will fit and work.

    If the carb is prior to 1968, then the air cleaner mounting circle will be smaller than the later "Holley" size. There are additional adapters for this situation, but you can also find OEM air cleaners with the smaller circle in their base plates. Most will have snorkels but there were some others which were snorkel-less. Many of those took a Fram CA127 filter.

    The Poly 318 motor is a very durable motor. The bottom end of the block casting has thicker main webs than the beloved small block Chevy. So no strength issues there!

    The VIN should definitely indicate the model year of production. Unfortunately, back then, errors in recording some things happened at the local tax offices. That's an observation from many years ago! Many things which made a '66 different from the '65 were all usually "bolt-on" trim items, BUT there were a few things like the parking brake and rear axles that WERE visibly different on the '66s. There are some Chrysler '65 parts books on the www.jholst.net website, so you can see what the '65 had and compare it to what you've got.

    Enjoy!
    CBODY67
     
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  17. rkrochen

    rkrochen Well-Known Member

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    79AC0DA3-E2D7-4EB2-954A-0699887AD02B.jpeg The easiest and quickest way to tell is that the 65 model and 66 model sported different grills. Here is what a 66 looks like.
     
  18. Davea Lux

    Davea Lux Senior Member FCBO Gold Member

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    Who is the DOA behind the car?

    Dave
     
  19. rkrochen

    rkrochen Well-Known Member

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    Good catch. That is the tow truck driver loading the car. It was in the way to the shop for the missing windshield.
     
  20. Davea Lux

    Davea Lux Senior Member FCBO Gold Member

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    Tow truck driver must have slept thru the training video on safe hook up operations. NEVER leave your legs out in the street! Some drunk or half blind idiot will run over them and ruin an otherwise perfect day.

    Dave
     
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