1965 new Yorker AC line wanted/Compressor question

[mopar440]

On my 65, looks like someone cut the larger ( suction?) Line, anyone got a used one or one that can be used to repair this?

Also, the compressor has been open to the elements, anyone ever took one apart to freshen it up, or am I wasting time, and should get rebuilt?

Thanks!

 

[Davea Lux]

The open A/C system is going to cause you no end of trouble. Left open to the elements, the remaining oil in the system gets contaminated with water vapor from the air and the oil turns to jello. It probably will be necessary to remove the evaporator and condenser and have them flushed to remove the old oil. The filter dryer will also be contaminated and it will need to be replaced. Put a socket on the clutch hub for the compressor, if you can still turn it two revolutions, the compressor can be resealed and probably will still work. Most of the time when some moron cuts the hoses it is because they have given up on trying to fix the A/C system and are planning to remove it. Given the high failure rate on RV2 compressors running on R-134a, you should consider converting to a Sanden compressor with all new hoses and seals, that way you will have an A/C system that is durable for the longer term. There are several threads on this site about making this conversion.

Dave

 

[mopar440]

The open A/C system is going to cause you no end of trouble. Left open to the elements, the remaining oil in the system gets contaminated with water vapor from the air and the oil turns to jello. It probably will be necessary to remove the evaporator and condenser and have them flushed to remove the old oil. The filter dryer will also be contaminated and it will need to be replaced. Put a socket on the clutch hub for the compressor, if you can still turn it two revolutions, the compressor can be resealed and probably will still work. Most of the time when some moron cuts the hoses it is because they have given up on trying to fix the A/C system and are planning to remove it. Given the high failure rate on RV2 compressors running on R-134a, you should consider converting to a Sanden compressor with all new hoses and seals, that way you will have an A/C system that is durable for the longer term. There are several threads on this site about making this conversion.

Dave

Great, thanks, I will look into the conversion. I have r134a experience, but not much r12. Is that line nothing special? Something I can have made at hose shop?

 

[Davea Lux]

Great, thanks, I will look into the conversion. I have r134a experience, but not much r12. Is that line nothing special? Something I can have made at hose shop?

The line might be available as part of the package conversion. R-12 lines had barbed fittings on the ends to hold the hose in place, these sometime leak when running R-134a because the gas molecule is smaller, so if you need to make up a new hose, the modern standard for R-123a is ribbed connections. Trick is always finding fittings that are compatible with your system where it hooks to the evaporator. Be sure to replace all of the old black o-rings in the system as these will also leak with R-134a, use the green high density o-rings. Somebody on this site (Commando?) listed the part numbers for the fittings as part of his conversion. A search of the site should turn that conversion post up. Good luck.

Dave

 

[mopar440]

Sounds good, thanks for the info

Also, why does there seem to be 2 heater core hookupso the firewall with heater hose? 2 cores?? I haven't investigated that yet

 

[Davea Lux]

Sounds good, thanks for the info

Also, why does there seem to be 2 heater core hookupso the firewall with heater hose? 2 cores?? I haven't investigated that yet

Do you have a rear seat heater?

Dave

 

[Polara_500]

65 will have a remote heater control valve - that's the outboard (lower) connections. You can see the valve on the interior of the car in the passenger footwell.

 

[mopar440]

Do you have a rear seat heater?

Dave

Not that I can see? I'm a b body guy, so this is my first C

 

[Davea Lux]

Not that I can see? I'm a b body guy, so this is my first C

Then the second line goes to the heater valve, which is not part of the heater core assembly. See post above by polara 500.

Dave

 

[CBODY67]

There was a recent thread which mentioned using a Volvo repair kit to repair the '65-68 water control valve (with instructions).

There used to be a Chrysler repair kit for the RV compressors. Rings, bearings, seals . . . just like for an engine. Plus new reed valves. Considering the reports of poor rebuilds out there, you might have decent luck doing it yourself with those overhaul parts. But then there's the issue of the integrity of the EPR valve's rubber innards. But, at this point in time, probably best to do the Sanden conversion. You might see if one of the 15+ back plates have connections that don't look like the universal one's "bug antennae" pipe connections.

As big as the stock condenser is, it's claimed that a "mass flow" condenser works better with R-134a than the OEM "serpentine" condenser.

Enjoy!
CBODY67

 

[John Taylor]

I am parting a 65 Fury III Wagon the motor is gone but all of the under hood a/c stuff is there it was a 383 car i can take some pictures and you can see if my parts would work for you. I know it has not been opened up.

 

[mopar440]

I am parting a 65 Fury III Wagon the motor is gone but all of the under hood a/c stuff is there it was a 383 car i can take some pictures and you can see if my parts would work for you. I know it has not been opened up.

Sure, take a few good pics of that big ac let me that runs on the passenger side, I may try to get the old system running atleast for this summer

I suppose fury trim is different on the lower part of the body? Need some trim too

 

[John Taylor]

Sure, take a few good pics of that big ac let me that runs on the passenger side, I may try to get the old system running atleast for this summer

I suppose fury trim is different on the lower part of the body? Need some trim too

440, here is a picture of that line. It is tied up over to the drivers side at the moment but it looks to be the one you need.

 

[mopar440]

Thanks, I'll look ok tomorrow to see if looks the same, what you think you need for a price? Thanks

 

[John Taylor]

Thanks, I'll look ok tomorrow to see if looks the same, what you think you need for a price? Thanks

Let me know if its the one and i will see if i can get it off then we can talk about the price.

 

[Davea Lux]

Let me know if its the one and i will see if i can get it off then we can talk about the price.

Take a propane torch and lightly heat the nut on the connecting fitting, that will prevent the line from getting twisted as the nut is threaded loose.

Dave

 

[John Taylor]

Thank you Lux