1965 New Yorker Dash pad repair..anyone use this putty ?

Early C Bodies - The Slab Side Years

  1. emmd61

    emmd61 Member

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    Hi. Still working on my 1965 NYer wagon and progress is slow but positive. I have the seats out now and thinking of doing the cracks in the dash....which are not too bad. I think I read that you have to pull the windshield to get dash out. Is that true? Has anyone used this dash putty? I would prefer not to pull windshield. 169795292_5326838634055987_5179953736194296379_n.jpg 169084848_284269983141708_3906256586853367019_n.jpg
     
    Last edited: Apr 5, 2021
  2. The Goose

    The Goose Senior Member

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    Say the same on my 1969 BUT if you use a flexible extension you can remove the nuts against the glass and then yank the dash with the windshield in place. Look up ABC out of kingman - Bob has some how to’s on pulling dash pads on his Company site.
     
  3. Ross Wooldridge

    Ross Wooldridge Senior Member FCBO Gold Member

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    The pad should come off without requiring the removal of the entire dashboard assembly. It's a fiddly job, but can be done in car.

    Do you have the factory service manual?

    Personally, I've never had experience with any of those filler materials.
     
  4. sprice

    sprice Member

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    I did my the dash on my 68' 300 so cannot comment on pulling the windshield. I can tell you it took me about a year to get it right and mine was quite minor. The problem I ran into was experiencing the various expansion/contraction properties of the factory covering and this (or any) repair material. I would apply according to instructions, light sand to what felt level. Then over some days of leaving this project and attending to other work, I noticed the areas of repair would be raised or cracked. I could only relate this to a temperature change. Over the course of time, I would patch, sand and place in sun and in cool garage , eventually winter. I almost gave up on it when I placed it outside in the sun and the repair points raised yet again. I sanded smooth, primed again, painted, placed in the sun again, no movement. Thought I better wait for winter to see if it would contract and so far, no issues. I am still working on the rest of the car so "no real world out there kind of experience" however happy so far. I did purchase a cover to place on the dash to not push my luck. Polyvance video makes it look quite easy. Other thing I would recommend is using the flexible primer and paint. I could not tell if the material shifts were from original dash covering, putty, primer or paint but suspect they all need some flexibility due to temp changes. If this is going to be fun car show driver then would probably try again. If the dash is for show stopper, 7-10 grade kind of thing, I would look at the professional businesses that recover dashes.
     
  5. CBODY67

    CBODY67 Old Man with a Hat

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    Putting a flex agent into the pre-paint paint mix is important. As in flex agent + acrylic lacquer to do the color on GM padded dashes (pads replaced after the outer surfaces curled where they attached to the base structure, as in my '77 Camaro and similar). Not unlike adding the fle agent to the paint sprayed onto the "rubber bumper" fascias in the later 1970s and later.

    Just some thoughts,
    CBODY67
     
  6. 69PHOENIX

    69PHOENIX Member

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    Hi Fellas,
    Don't mean to Break into the Conversation, BUT, Can Anyone Give Me a Recommendation of What to Use Before the Dash Cracks?
    I have had the Unfortunate Experience of Using a Proprietary Brand on a Dash Pad & the Result Actually Looked like the Product Caused the Pad to Crack even Worse.
    Many Years ago used to use Medicinal Glycerine (I'm working on Memory Here, So Extreme Care Please) Gently, Very Gently Massaged into the Pad on a Nice Warm Day.
    I'm Guessing Modern Technology has Provided a More Suitable Solution Since Those Long Gone Days. (Hopefully)
    The Pad on My Car is in Pretty Good Nick & I'd Like to Keep It That Way.
    Any Suggestions?
    T.I.A. Tony.M
     
    Last edited: Apr 5, 2021
  7. The Goose

    The Goose Senior Member

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    From e body experience I’d say loose any metal hardware attaching speakers, speaker grilles etc. they always seem to crack where these dang metal bolts/screws are heating up. When I finally install my new (old) 1969 dash pad I’m first removing all the extra hardware speakers etc and I’m thinking I’ll use nylon nuts instead of metal. They won’t last forever but we can do what we can to help em survive.

    PS NO armorall ever. Never.
     
  8. 69PHOENIX

    69PHOENIX Member

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    "The Goose"
    Forgive Me, My Old DA had a Saying "You Don't Have to Have a Long Neck to Be a Goose"
    You have Bought Back Fond Memories.
    I was being Polite in Not Mentioning the Brand Name thinking maybe I was just Unlucky, But Yes I would Agree Not Ever Armorall!
    Thanks for the Advice, I can See the Sense in It.
    Kind Regards, Tony. M
     
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  9. 3C's & a D?

    3C's & a D? Senior Member

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    Formula 303.

     
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  10. 68PK21 440.6bbl

    68PK21 440.6bbl Old Man with a Hat

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    I was thinking about something like this when I saw a ad for a car with a Grand Canyon sized crack. FFS put some bondo in that crack came into my mind.
     
  11. SGT FURY

    SGT FURY Senior Member FCBO Gold Member

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    I believe I have a red uncracked dash pad out of a 65 300. I dig it out and post pics if your interested?
     
  12. mopar440

    mopar440 Well-Known Member

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    No armorall? What happens? What do you use?
     
  13. patrick66

    patrick66 Old Man with a Hat

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    NEVER use Armor-All or any other silicone-based "preserver" on any automotive application! They end up making that surface even more prone to decay and cracking. Vinyl tops and dash pads are especially prone. All I use is a soft, wet cloth with light soap (NOT Dawn or other oil-absorbing cleaner!!!). Wipe the surface clean, then take a damp, soft, DRY towel to dry the top or dash. That's all. Period. I've used this technique on my 1966 Coronet, which has the ORIGINAL pad which is crack-free, and its vinyl top, which was replaced in 1984 before I had the car painted. It's still as perfect as the day it was installed.

    No silicone. No trendy cleaners or "preservatives". Keeping your car garaged or covered helps immensely, too. If it stays outside all the time, ozone is the worst enemy of your car interior (any material!), tires, and all other rubber seals and surfaces.
     
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  14. SGT FURY

    SGT FURY Senior Member FCBO Gold Member

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    I just sold dash pad to local 65 owner who saw it listed here on this post!

    I remember reading in a body shop industry magazine where the biggest complaint of painters was when owners wash there cars before bringing them in for paint and armor all tires and interior. Causing the paint to fish eye everywhere.
     
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  15. 69PHOENIX

    69PHOENIX Member

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    From Ancient Times Once More,
    For Vinyl Tops We used to Clean thoroughly & Then use Boot Polish.
    Looked Brand New.
    Tony.M
    Very First Question our Panel Beating Teacher Asked the Class.
    "What's the First Thing you Do before Washing a Car Ready for Painting?"
     
  16. Ross Wooldridge

    Ross Wooldridge Senior Member FCBO Gold Member

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    Answer - "wash it again, sir."
     
  17. 69PHOENIX

    69PHOENIX Member

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    Actually, It Was...
    Close the Windows! LOL
    Tony.M
     
  18. Ross Wooldridge

    Ross Wooldridge Senior Member FCBO Gold Member

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    Duhhh.... of course! I mis-read the question, and was focussed on the need for things to be extra clean when painting.
     
  19. 69PHOENIX

    69PHOENIX Member

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    Don't Worry,
    You Weren't Robinson Crusoe.
    Regards, Tony.M
     
  20. 65 500

    65 500 Senior Member

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    What kind of dumbass would paint a car with the windows open?:realcrazy: