1965 single to duel master cylinder conversion.

HWYCRZR

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We’re not going to get into the “Zed” X vs. “Zee” X discussion are we? (past experience on a 300ZX). Or Tire vs. Tyre?
 

livininharrow

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then what was the reason for your comment about the original posters spelling? DUH enjoy your day knucklehead
 

darth_linux

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I put one on from a 67 New Yorker on my 64 880. Did not even have to adjust the power brake booster push rod.

View attachment 589471
Dan do you have a link to a source for the two lines going from the MC downwards, as well as they brass block they go into? I'm converting my '66 single to 67/68 dual this summer and have heard about some brands (Inline Tube) not fitting correctly.

Thanks in advance!
 

Dan Scully

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Dan do you have a link to a source for the two lines going from the MC downwards, as well as they brass block they go into? I'm converting my '66 single to 67/68 dual this summer and have heard about some brands (Inline Tube) not fitting correctly.

Thanks in advance!
I made the lines, Napa and other stores sell the line. It has a green color to it and bends really easy I made the loops by just bending it around a big socket, the coil line protector you can buy from different sources. I just took the rear brake line fitting out of the original junction block and bent that line up and used a union fitting to connect the line to the master cylinder. I then plugged that opening in the junction block with a flare plug. Has been like this for years with no problems. I also could not find a junction block that would work.
 

darth_linux

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I made the lines, Napa and other stores sell the line. It has a green color to it and bends really easy I made the loops by just bending it around a big socket, the coil line protector you can buy from different sources. I just took the rear brake line fitting out of the original junction block and bent that line up and used a union fitting to connect the line to the master cylinder. I then plugged that opening in the junction block with a flare plug. Has been like this for years with no problems. I also could not find a junction block that would work.
So in theory you could almost just eliminate the junction block and just use two union fittings, one for front, one for rear, and custom bend your own lines from the MC down to where the junction block used to live, connecting to the front and rear. Just being sure to connect the line closest to the firewall to the front brakes and the line furthest from the firewall to the rear brakes. Right?

EDIT: Just learned that the fronts have two lines, so i'll keep the distro block and plumb a new line for the rears, just as you did.
 
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Dan Scully

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So in theory you could almost just eliminate the junction block and just use two union fittings, one for front, one for rear, and custom bend your own lines from the MC down to where the junction block used to live, connecting to the front and rear. Just being sure to connect the line closest to the firewall to the front brakes and the line furthest from the firewall to the rear brakes. Right?
Keep the original junction block, remove the single line from the original master cylinder that goes to the junction block. Run one new line from the new dual master cylinder to that fitting this will be the front brakes, remove the line that feeds the rear brakes at the junction block bend it up and connect to the other new line with a junction. This way you only have one junction fitting. Plug the rear line fitting on the original block with a flare plug. Not sure if it matters on which port on the dual master cylinder the lines go. I would have to look on mine to see which goes were.
 
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