1966 300, 383, total rebuild. Stalling

[Bryon Mason]

Sonim at my wits end. Not sure if I have a fuel, vacuum, or power issue. Car was running fine, perfect actually. Now suddenly it wants to constantly stall. It will idle in park and neutral, goes into gear and it wants to stall, sometimes it immediately dies. Sometimes when I press the brake (all drums) it dies. Sometimes when I push the gas at a red-light it dies. Once it running at a higher speed it runs perfect. I've adjusted the timing, the idle screw. If i run the timing advanced it somewhat helps, but I mean extremely advanced ..

HELP!!!

 

[commando1]

Looks like you're still running points?
We have to ask a ton of questions first.
So far, it can be 100 things.

 

[halifaxhops]

OK what ignition is in it and by chance if points did you change out the condeser recently? Also see how much slack you have in the timing chain easy check could be that also. Asumming it was replaced, also this all happen right after the rebuld? When it does die did you check if it is getting fuel at that time and also spark?

 

[Bryon Mason]

I put an electronic ignition in it similar to this one. It came with a ballast Resister amd im still running the original at the firewall, do I need to delete one or both?

 

[halifaxhops]

Those have a bad track record of defective ECU's. You really have to see if you have spark when it dies to eliminate that if it is working well. Also a points ballast if OEM is .5-.6 ohm the one with that should be one ohm, yes I would change it. Still check for spark and fuel when it dies to get a starting point. This all happen after the rebuild?

 

[Bryon Mason]

Those have a bad track record of defective ECU's. You really have to see if you have spark when it dies to eliminate that if it is working well. Also a points ballast if OEM is .5-.6 ohm the one with that should be one ohm, yes I would change it. Still check for spark and fuel when it dies to get a starting point. This all happen after the rebuild?

 

[commando1]

Where's the orange box?

 

[Bryon Mason]

Its been running great actually, for short distance. I finally got good tires on it amd really broke the engine in at cruising speeds. Ran great. Then next day all these problems popped up.

 

[halifaxhops]

Something crapped out. Any chance there a old school parts store around that can check the ECU for you? And make sure it is grounded well also. Kind of sounds like movement stops,go etc are triggering whatever it is.

 

[CBODY67]

What carb is on the motor? How long might it have been inactive? Does it start fine, run fine, until the fast idle cam kicks off and the idle system is supposed to work? Have you changed carbs as a diagnostic orientation?

When it starts to go away and tries to die, what do you do to get it back? Or will it come back due to those activities? Does it always re-start easily or after some cranking and other things?

To me, if electronics are failing, they fail completely, not just part of the time. Although certain conditions might lead to sporadic issues, sometimes.

Fuel issues can tend to act like ignition issues, sometimes. But not ruling anything out just yet.

Just some thoughts and questions.
CBODY67

 

[Bryon Mason]

Edelbrock AVS2 650. When it dies sometimes it will fire right back up, sometimes it leaves me stranded. Alternator is about 5 months old, battery about the same. It sometimes has a small backfire through the carb at the end of a cycle when trying to start. I'll try to get video later today if I can get it to replicate the issues.

 

[halifaxhops]

Is it lets say a heat issue? Gets hot and dies, cools down and starts again?

 

[Bryon Mason]

Definitely seems to be a hot cold issue, started fine. Ran fine, once it got hot the problems started again.

 

[mr gtx]

shouldn't the ballast be by passed by using a jumper wire ?

 

[mrs49]

Sonim at my wits end. Not sure if I have a fuel, vacuum, or power issue. Car was running fine, perfect actually. Now suddenly it wants to constantly stall. It will idle in park and neutral, goes into gear and it wants to stall, sometimes it immediately dies. Sometimes when I press the brake (all drums) it dies. Sometimes when I push the gas at a red-light it dies. Once it running at a higher speed it runs perfect. I've adjusted the timing, the idle screw. If i run the timing advanced it somewhat helps, but I mean extremely advanced ..View attachment 496975 View attachment 496976 HELP!!!

Make sure you don't have a problem with your accelerator pump. Little things can sometimes eat your lunch. Good luck.

 

[Big_John]

I put an electronic ignition in it similar to this one. It came with a ballast Resister amd im still running the original at the firewall, do I need to delete one or both?

View attachment 496978

One ballast resistor.

I'd use the one that came with the new ignition, but it probably doesn't matter which one you delete.

By using two, your are limiting the amount of current to the ignition more than you need. Get it hot and the current flow through the ballast resistor goes down even farther (as it should). So... Current goes down and now the voltage has dropped to where.. Drum roll... The car starts stalling etc.

If that doesn't help, you need to go over basics before you start throwing parts at it... and throw away that f...ing glass fuel filter!!! The glass breaks and your car burns. Metal fuel filter is the way to go.

 

[halifaxhops]

Put the one that came with the kit in it is rated for the ecu, Only one of them and that system do not jump it. The ECU is a mopar knockoff, "replaces" is the word there. Lots of failues with them also. If the fuel is good classic Pickup in the dist problem but also can be the ecu, need them tested to be sure both hot and cold.

 

[Mike66Chryslers]

One ballast resistor.

I'd use the one that came with the new ignition, but it probably doesn't matter which one you delete.

By using two, your are limiting the amount of current to the ignition more than you need. Get it hot and the current flow through the ballast resistor goes down even farther (as it should). So... Current goes down and now the voltage has dropped to where.. Drum roll... The car starts stalling etc.

If that doesn't help, you need to go over basics before you start throwing parts at it... and throw away that f...ing glass fuel filter!!! The glass breaks and your car burns. Metal fuel filter is the way to go.

I was going to say the same thing about the BR. As soon as I saw the first BR pic I thought, "Why was the BR rewired instead of using the factory wiring?" Then I saw the next pic and that there are actually TWO BR's wired-in somehow, which is definitely not correct.

 

[Bryon Mason]

I was going to say the same thing about the BR. As soon as I saw the first BR pic I thought, "Why was the BR rewired instead of using the factory wiring?" Then I saw the next pic and that there are actually TWO BR's wired-in somehow, which is definitely not correct.

The rats nest i inherited with the car, going to try and correct all that after I paint.

 

[Bryon Mason]

Thanks for all the advice everyone. I deleted the original Ballast resistor, changed the fuel filter and made some tweaks to the fuel /air mixture on the carb. Running like I've never heard it run before! Now it seems to have developed a rattle, im guessing from the exhaust..on to the next problem!