1966 Polara 880: The Build So Far, or "Bring Money".

Member's Projects & Restorations

  1. TroyCo

    TroyCo Member

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    Yes, but I won't be using it. I have a Lokar cable set up on the other engine when I swapped to a 4 bbl.
     
  2. TxDon

    TxDon Well-Known Member

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    Subscribed, love the undercover sleeper vibe.
     
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  3. TroyCo

    TroyCo Member

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    Oil is draining, everything else is buttoned up. Tomorrow after work, I'm lighting this candle.

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  4. TxDon

    TxDon Well-Known Member

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  5. LocuMob

    LocuMob Fluid Technician with a hat FCBO Gold Member

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    AC definitely clutters it up.
     
  6. TroyCo

    TroyCo Member

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    Lots of room for activities.
     
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  7. TroyCo

    TroyCo Member

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    Could not get that engine to run at all. Timing seems to be way off, won't do anything else other than backfire through the carb. Every time I just about get it to run, the battery goes dead.

    So I stepped away from it. Decided to see what's going on inside my "new" 440.

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    A shitload of sludge, apparently. But, I seemed to luck out with the internals. Forged crank, 6 pack rods, windage tray, double roller timing chain, and the cylinders still show crosshatch. It also appears to not have been rebuilt, so bonus. The only thing I'm not sure about are the pistons. I found a part # inside the skirts, 3671218. Anybody know what they are? I can't seem to find any information. I'm assuming low compression slugs.
     
    Last edited: Oct 19, 2021
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  8. LocuMob

    LocuMob Fluid Technician with a hat FCBO Gold Member

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    That's often a sign the distributor is off 180°.
     
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  9. Ross Wooldridge

    Ross Wooldridge Senior Member FCBO Gold Member

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    ...or plug wires are mixed up...
     
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  10. TroyCo

    TroyCo Member

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    I thought I prepared for that by leaving everything as it was as much as I could before I disassembled everything. But those are the telltale signs. Didn't bother to check. Ran out of patience for today.
     
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  11. TroyCo

    TroyCo Member

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    I am at a loss. No matter where I set the timing, it runs really rough. It will barely idle without backfiring through the tailpipe or the carb. Eventually, it will not even start at all. I then have to come back after an hour and do it all over again. What am I missing? Here's what I do know:

    -The wires and distributor are installed correctly.
    -The cam is advanced 4°, degrees right in spec.
    -Entire ignition system has been replaced.
    -Runs the same with multiple carbs.
    -Cam and lifters show no signs of wear or flat spots.

    Any suggestions?
     
  12. TxDon

    TxDon Well-Known Member

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    Why did you advance the cam? Are your sure the timing gears are set correctly and not off by a tooth? Did you check for vacuum leaks around the intake and carb gasket areas?
     
  13. TroyCo

    TroyCo Member

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    I chose to advance it because it was running this badly the first time I put it together. I thought I made a mistake the first time I installed the cam, so I took it apart to verify by degreeing, so what harm could it do? The dots on the timing gears lined up the same no matter how many times I installed them. I tried moving the chain over a tooth each time, but it would never install properly on the cam.

    I now have a rebuilt set of heads on it, all new gaskets, no change whatsoever. At least before it would stay running, albeit poorly.

    It's something stupid I'm overlooking. I know that.
     
    Last edited: Oct 21, 2021
  14. TroyCo

    TroyCo Member

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    At 2:30 this morning, I had an epiphany. The only thing I neglected to check out was my distributor drive gear. I am of the understanding the slot is supposed to be facing front to back at TDC on the compression stroke? Anyhow, I pulled the distributor out, and here's where it's pointed.

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    Could this be the cause of all my issues after all?
     
  15. thethee

    thethee Active Member

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    Sorry if this is too obvious, but how are you checking the timing? If with a timing light it shouldn't matter if the slot is not parallel to the cam at TDC since you will compensate for this during timing.
     
  16. TroyCo

    TroyCo Member

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    Timing light, yes. I was wondering about that as well, but nonetheless, it's worth a shot.
     
  17. 1970cat

    1970cat Senior Member FCBO Gold Member

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    with the valve cover off, number 1 cylinder should have both valves completely closed on the compression stroke. also, the timing mark should be within a few degrees of zero on the tab and the distributor rotor should be pointing at the number 1 wire on the distributor cap.
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    if all of these things check out together, it should be good to go as far as timing.
     
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  18. TroyCo

    TroyCo Member

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    All of the above checks out. That's what got me stumped. I've set the initial timing everywhere between 7-15°, seemed to like it best around 10-12°. Having said that, it still ran horribly. It wouldn't make any power above 2000 rpms without stumbling and backfiring. Adjustments made to the idle mixture on my 750 made no appreciable difference, it would only run really rich. I went as far as to put on a fresh 600 Holley, and it ran even worse. I couldn't even get it to idle at all. Floats were right on between the two. Now the 600 just dumps fuel into the motor and floods it. The 750 is going back on. At least it ran. Poorly, but it ran.

    I'm getting tired of chasing my tail here.
     
  19. TxDon

    TxDon Well-Known Member

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    More basics: test each plug wire for spark. Are plugs new, doublecheck gap. Recheck firing order. Primary wires to coil tight? Substitute another coil.
     
  20. TroyCo

    TroyCo Member

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    It's finally RUNNING!

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    I swapped in a new set of plugs and the 3310 I rebuilt originally. One thing's for sure, this engine really prefers that carb.

    I still have a few bugs to iron out. The Lokar throttle cable is binding someplace, but that's the least of my worries. Also need to make some fine adjustments to the carb to really dial it in, but first impressions are good. It feels like it has a lot more power.

    All it needs now is some lower gears and a higher stall.
     
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