1966 Sport Fury push button heater AC switch

[6060]

Hey there, I have a 66 SF that needs a functional AC / heater pushbutton switch. The old one had all the plastic pins in the back broken off. I bought the new manufactured one, that is common with the various parts sellers, which only functions on the "cool" settings. This car has the AC compressor removed, and I only desire to have heat and defrost. Can someone way smarter than me on this topic please advise how to make this work? I have been reading around on various forum posts enough to discover they all have minute differences from year to year. Obviously I would prefer to not have to shell out $400ish for this part. The particular switch I am talking about is the mopar # 2587564. I have seen that some of the older switches have different pin outs, and I have seen some people mention using a jumper wire. I am a total noob, who has zero experience, this is my first car project.

Thank you in advance for any input.

6060

 

[65CopCar]

So that is the same one as for my 67 Coronet. The newer part number is 3502126. There are different electrical pins, but that is easy to figure out and I believe you leave one pin off for older versions. I use on of the newer one in my car and it works fine. You can get the newer one NOS for under $100 on ebay. Here is a cheap aftermarket new.

What is your question regarding eliminating cooling? Why not just ignore that functionality? Or you can convert the dash to non AC?

Mopar 3502126 1995501 AC Switch | eBay

Brand new in box Mopar 1995-501 3502126 push button AC heating control for 70’s Chrysler Dodge Plymouth products. Murray purchased a lot of oem parts back then and re- boxed them like this one with the original Mopar part number still stamped on it. As shown in pictures. Please carefully examine...

www.ebay.com

 

[6060]

My post was worded poorly in that regard, I intend to ignore the AC functionality. I would like functional heat and defrost. Thank you for the heads up, I will search up that part number.

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

While I don't have a link, there are videos on rebuilding the little plastic tubes that come out of the back. @Big_John may be able to help.

Those AC switches were changed in 67, and an original replacement that will plug and play with your harness and vacuum hose routing will be hard to find, and expensive when you do. I just went through this. They were used from about 1960 - 1966.

Regardless, if you're not interested in running your AC, but only heat and defrost, then you still need the vacuum hose harness to work to open and close the dash, heater and defrost doors within the heater box. Therefore the modern and much more affordable replacement you bought should work with the vacuum hose harness connection ports, and it's just the wiring for the fan switch that will be what needs to be figured out. Or find an original.

Since I wanted an original replacement to work with my setup with no changes, I never went further with the modern replacements because I'd have to do what you need to do to figure out the electrical pins for the fan.

If you want plug and play, you gots to pay. Hill Top Auto Parts has an NOS one for $495
NOS Mopar Push Button Vacuum Switch A/C Heater 1960-8 Models - Hiltop Auto Parts

Here's a used original on eBay
1964 Chrysler Push Button Vacuum Switch #2587564 | eBay

You can rummage around on eBay using this search, but the above original is the only one I saw, although I didn't search all of the results:
Mopar Pushbutton Vacuum Switch 2587564 for sale | eBay

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

I found @Big_John's link

How To Rebuild a Vacuum Heater Control Switch

 

[6060]

Thank you for the additional information Ross.

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

My pleasure!

 

[65CopCar]

I had the electrical figured out on using the newer ones in place of the old ones but can't find it. I can do it again if necessary.

I believe the new version came out in 68.

 

[6060]

65copcar, I would love to know what you had to change in order to make that newer version work, I will take a look at the factory wiring diagrams to see if I can determine what the difference is.

I found my original '66 switch mopar part # 2587564, which will only be good for a reference. I don't think I can even get the thing rebuilt, it's so discolored, the housing is significantly cracked and the back piece has a large crack between the electrical terminals. Several of the receptacles that hold onto the buttons are broken off as well. The switch certainly seems like a lost cause, it's too far gone unfortunately.

 

[65CopCar]

There are plenty of good ones available on ebay sub $100. I have one on my office desk as a matter of fact. NOS. Or that link I sent you. $65 and its new.

Might take me a day or so to do the drawing. Tied on working on Harley heads for my neighbor right now.

 

[65CopCar]

Ok - I reviewed the changes between the original switch assembly (part# 2587564 - believe up to 1967) and the readily available and much cheaper newer switch such as part# 3502126 (believe 1968 up). See attached documentation.

Now for the bad news. The NOS switch in my 67 Coronet (newer style) is no good - B body and C body are the same. Blower does not work in max AC or defrost. 98% sure its the switch assembly. What supports that is my bench testing and when I was doing bench testing of the newer switch assembly on the NOS one I had on my desk, I found that it has high resistance on some settings. Not good.

So I decided its time to figure out how to rebuild these switches. Thank you Ross for the write-up on the switch rebuilding - it basically is along the same lines as what I was thinking. Fortunately I have the tools to do a good job. Will also rebuild a spare original, and it has broken pins. Plan on making a new back with the pins for it. Also found that spare used blower switch I have is no good (totally open in all positions) so will be rebuilding those.

I will post my progress on the switch rebuilding and if it goes well may very well be willing to do others for folks. Stay tuned........

 

[65CopCar]

And I have verified from the factory service manuals that the vacuum ports are the same between the 2 version of switches. So basically you just leave that one electrical pin off. No reason to not use the newer version switch in my opinion.

 

[6060]

Wow, thank you for such an in depth response! I really appreciate you taking the time for that! Much respect 65copcar!