1967 383 valve seal question

[swisherred]

I bought a full engine gasket and seal kit for my 67 383 and had read about the intake and exhaust seals being two different shapes...large umbrella and small deflector....but when i took mine apart I had large umbrellas on ALL my valves. I opted to install the new ones..large on intake and smalls on exhaust, but now i found that this was for a later model engine. My question is should I go back and take them out and replace with what was originally in it or just leave it?

 

[413]

Leave it, it is fine.

 

[CBODY67]

The Chrysler B/RB valve seals were the same "forever". Other than the fact that some might have been orange silicone rather than black.

The issues with valve seal wear relate to the valve stem to valve guide clearance. Oil consumption won't become an issue until that clearance gets too large, at which time the valve stem can "move" in the seal as it goes up and down, "wearing" the center hole of the seal. But when that happens long enough (the valve wallering around in the guide, the valve will not initially seat completely on the head and start to burn the valve. Not unlike the lip seal on the rear of the trans tail shaft housing starting to leak as the inner bushing the slip yoke turns in gets some wear on it. A new seal won't last long unless you also replace the bushing

On three of my cars, each of them had or was getting a burnt valve on #7 by about 85K miles.

Keep going like you're going.

CBODY67