1967 Chrysler Newport

rsh1966vip

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I bought this one today. It has 46,000 one owner miles and zero rust. The interior is in excellent condition. It has a 383 engine. The first thing I need to correct is the passenger side E-brake is stuck. I am guessing the first thing I should do is pull off the tire and hub to see what's going on. Anyone have any other suggestions?
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thanks
rsh

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Davea Lux

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Pull the wheel and the brake drum. Odds are that the rear axle seal is leaking and the shoes are stuck to the drum. You could also have a stuck wheel cylinder, if that is the case replace all of them. Other possibility is that the brake cable to that wheel is seized or someone has messed with the cable adjustment.

Dave
 

CBODY67

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The car looks very good! Wash, clean, wax, change fluids, and enjoy.

The interior might look new, but it could be very fragile, too. Might put a sheet on it for good measure.

Congrats!
CBODY67
 

SPF Required

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Great looking ride. I look forward to more pics and stories of you cruising down some country roads. (Nice workshop by the way!)
 

mobileparts

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Congratulations!!!
Looks like a very clean, original survivor -- that is sweet....

If you wind up needing some Quality parts --- *** N.O.S. **
Asbestos *** Brake Shoes (if brake fluid soaked), Wheel Cylinders, & Emergency Brake Cables --- P.M. me, as per forum rules.... I have all of that....

Enjoy your new 28 foot toy !!!
 

bigmoparjeff

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Great looking car!

Most of the time you can free up those stuck cables by grabbing the cable with both hands and bending it back and forth. Even getting it to back off a little bit should make it easier to get the drum off. Then you can use a pry bar to retract the cable all the way.

Jeff
 

rsh1966vip

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So, here is want I found today. First of all at 78 yrs. I had brain fade. I used a floor jack to lift the tire, but could not get the tire out from under the fender. Then the light bulb went off. Get the bump jack from the trunk which of course lifts the body. Problem solved. I found the brake shoes to be stuck to the drum in two rusty spots. See pics (I like pics). Thanks for all the comments.,,,rsh1966vip
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rsh1966vip

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I am not getting the starter to engage. Is the solenoid located on the fender well drivers side? It looks like a solenoid, but I guess it could be on top of the starter. I have not crawled under to look yet,
rsh1966vip
 

CBODY67

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The issue is that many non-ethanol fuels are only 87 pump octane fuels. Which can result in clattering/pinging on acceleration. At this point in time, expect that all fuels which are not sold as "Ethanol free" to have about 10% or less of ethanol in it, regardless of grade or brand. www.fuel-testers.com website has a list of "ethanol-free" or "E0" gas stations by state. By observation, the list might be a bit dated, so do your own investigation past what the website might indicate.

Regardless of which fuel is used, if the rubber fuel lines are "as old as the car", they will not resist the deterioration of ethanol'd fuels, now or in the past. So that needs to be on a "To Do" list, too. From the tank all the way to the carb. Which is not that many feet of fuel line hose, just more effort to change the 5 shorter pieces.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
 

D Cluley

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The solenoid is part of the starter itself, and is activated by the starter relay which is the thing up on the drivers side fender.

Is your starter spinning/making noise but not engaging with the engine, or is it just not doing anything?
 

rsh1966vip

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The starter does nothing. It makes sense that the part on the fender well is a relay. I didn't think of that. Now, for the rest of the story. I took my battery to O'reilly's for a charge. They told me I had a dead cell (got a new one). I used my multimeter and it tested 10 volts. I did not realize that a battery could test 9 or 10 volts and be bad. I learn something everyday. Thanks for the reply. rsh1966vip
 

CBODY67

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The starter does nothing. It makes sense that the part on the fender well is a relay. I didn't think of that. Now, for the rest of the story. I took my battery to O'reilly's for a charge. They told me I had a dead cell (got a new one). I used my multimeter and it tested 10 volts. I did not realize that a battery could test 9 or 10 volts and be bad. I learn something everyday. Thanks for the reply. rsh1966vip

It's not just the voltage, but the load check they most probably did. Batteries with a bad cell will not pass the load test. Fewer cells working, fewer amps can be produced. Usually, if the battery will not load test within 10% of rated amps, it is failing. Bad/week/non-producing cells are usually the reason.

Enjoy!
CBODY67
 

Richard Reau

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Wow, great looking Newport! My obvious suggestion would be to check all cable connections (especially the grounds!) to make sure they are clean.

OH, and if you are 78 years old and can still crawl under cars, my hat is off to you sir!
 

rsh1966vip

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I bought the new battery and it has 650 Cold Cranking Amps. and this solved my issue, however, is this enough or do I need more CCA's? I can still get under old cars but it take me a long time to get back up.
rsh1966vip
 

Richard Reau

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Let me know when you go to replace those front wheel cylinders, I have a tip. I just did mine, and after much struggle, I came up with a handy solution.
 

detmatt

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Definitely replace all of your old rubber fuel line with new and don’t hesitate to use the higher octane pump gas that has no more than 10% ethanol as long as you’re using an additive to combat the negative effects of the ethanol. I use about 1 ounce of marine 2-cycle engine oil(TC-W3) per every 5 gallons of gas and have been doing so for at least 30k miles on my classics with no fuel relate issues due to ethanol.
You might also check that the rubber brake hoses are still allowing the free movement of fluid and aren’t swelling shut.
 

'66 Fury I

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You have a beautiful car! Lots of good advice too. Keep up the good work. I am 70 years old and have had cardiac issues, but I tell friends that I can do almost anything I want- it just takes longer!
Lindsay
 
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