1967 Newport rear windshield

swisherred

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I had two small leaks in my rear window...these led to the rotting out of my trunk, so today I decided to seal them up...didnt go as planned. I sealed one, but the other wouldnt seal. (this was meant to be temporary as I mean to remove the glass next year for paint...) I found that about 8" of the glue had separated from the glass and split. I started digging a little and it just started falling out. SO....now I have decided to need to remove the rear glass and fix the issue properly...prime it and paint it around the seal so that next year when i do the paint I can just blend in to the edge of the glass.

My question...what do I need to reinstall the glass? I can get it out (I think...the butyl is pretty soft and should cut out fairly easily) I dont know what size tape or whatever it is that I need to reinstall it. I have never done it, but given everything else i have done, Im pretty sure I can.
 
I would use the 3/8" butyl tape. Some will say to use urethane, but I think that's overkill, and asking for trouble if you ever need to remove the glass in the future.

Advance Auto Parts - Down for Maintenance

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Is 3/8" the proper thickness...I have been reading online about it being too thick for the trim to fit on most cars, but I cant find anything on mine.
 
I'm pretty sure that's what I used last time I did one. That's the size that most places have in stock.
 
Unfortunately, I didn't take any photos of the rusty window channel before I cleaned up the rust and painted it. Someone before me buggered up the mouldings and even managed to dent the dutchman panel when they removed them. The screw that they put through the trim was touching the glass and led to the shattered window.

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Jeff
 
Those are excellent pictures. I measured my channel depth to the bottom of the glass and its about 1/2" at the bottom...1/4" at the top...my trim is flush to the glass at the bottom but not the top...there is a gap there. I think the 3/8 is correct. I know my lower clips are toast...and the panel needs some rust repair..not bad but a good delay.
 
I will probably have to rebuild the lower channel but that shouldn't be too hard...I had just wanted to start driving it...now I'm a month behind again. I will look into the clips..now I just have to decide...do I reinstall the same glass or get the tinted glass from a parts car...
 
B body clips look correct. Just how bad of a job is this to get the window set right? I have 1/3 of the butyl out already just with a putty knife....staying away from the glass edge. Just working out the loose stuff.
 
Not hard at all. The butyl kit comes with the rubber spacers. You put the tape on the glass and stick the glass into the opening and push on it. The butyl is fairly firm, so it's not going to squish out like urethane can.
 
Not hard at all. The butyl kit comes with the rubber spacers. You put the tape on the glass and stick the glass into the opening and push on it. The butyl is fairly firm, so it's not going to squish out like urethane can.

Doesn't sound too hard as long as I can avoid the trim clips. I read the butyl needs a primer...I'm assuming I can paint the frame, add the primer, then glue the glass in?
 
I would skip the primer. It's more suited for fully cured paint. It may lift fresh paint. The butyl will adhere fine to your fresh paint. It's not needed on the glass either. Just clean the glass with alcohol.
 
I think that I tried to use the primer on the bronze Newport and it started to lift the new paint, so I stopped.

I also drilled two drain holes so water wouldn't sit in the channel. You can only do this on 1967's with the flow through ventilation.

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Got it out...time to clean it up and fix the rust. Going to brake the small holes shut...might add those drains. Going to paint the frame and install the glass...I will finish the roof later and blend into the painted frame.

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Doesn't look all too bad, rust-wise.

Are you still considering adding a vinyl top, or did you decide against that?
 
Doesn't look all too bad, rust-wise.

Are you still considering adding a vinyl top, or did you decide against that?
I decided to go with black paint instead of vinyl. It will have a black roof and purple body. There are a few holes but nothing I can't braze shut. I got the needed trim for the bottom and sides that wrap around the car for two tone paint. I just need new mastic clips for them and new trim clips for around the glass.
 
I decided to go with black paint instead of vinyl. It will have a black roof and purple body. There are a few holes but nothing I can't braze shut. I got the needed trim for the bottom and sides that wrap around the car for two tone paint. I just need new mastic clips for them and new trim clips for around the glass.

Very good. Glad to hear that you found the trim pieces. I thought that I had some spares but I was never able to find them.

I'd be very interested in buying your old "non-vinyl" lower trim pieces if you want to sell them.
 
I am a bit confused on the trim clips...my parts manual shows as having the same clips all the way around for both vinyl and no vinyl, but other info shows different clips for with and without. 60022206 is what my manual says, but there is this post too...

Window trim clip identification and sources (reference thread) Post make and model

I have a Texas '68 Fury fast top with vinyl roof that I took the rear glass out of for the Newport. I will check and see if the clips are still there and what style they are. I hope that I didn't remove them already.

As you can see in my pictures of the Newport, I used the shorter clips along the bottom.

Jeff
 
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