1968 Chrysler Newport 383 2 Barrel questions

[NewportNeumann]

Hello,

I have a 1968 Chrysler Newport 383 that has a carburetor going bad. It is a 2 barrel carb, and I am having a hell of a time finding a replacement, rebuild or new.

Doing some searching through past threads, looks like most recommend upgrading to a 4 barrel for the power increase and maybe fuel efficiency if you aren’t a lead foot.

Does anyone have any suggestions on the 2 barrel or any recommendations for a 4 barrel carb and the parts needed to convert. Thank you for your time.

 

[Turboomni]

https://www.carburetorrestorationyoungstownoh.com/

He is a member here.

 

[HWYCRZR]

@Dana is The member with the link above for the carburetor rebuild shop.

I have the same 2bbl Carb on my ‘68 Polara 383. They are nice and simple. If you are looking to spin the tires or more acceleration, a 4 barrel will do it, but you will have to re-do the linkages and of course intake manifold. If you like cruising and decent mileage. Keep the 2bbl. It will accelerate with traffic and have no issues going down the road at 80 Mph. I may be a little biased as I kept everyone original. My carb is a little loose in the shafts, but still holds a decent tune. Will likely send mine to Dana when driving season is over for the year.

 

[polara66hardtop]

original 2bbl is best. Conversion ia too much trouble, and that 9:0 to 1 engine will only go so fast.

 

[James Romano]

Had my original Carter AFB done by Woodruff. Great guy, easy to talk to, very fair price and the turn around was very good. Car has been running solid since I got mine back.

Have him do it and it will come back like new. He's the only shop I know of that actually installs the completed carb on a test engine and tunes it to the specs you tell him. Everywhere else just vacuum tests and sends it back to you for you to tweak.

You take it out of the box, bolt it back on your manifold and go cruising that night.

 

[CBODY67]

What issues are you having with the carb? The Carter BBD is a simple and pretty reliable item.

The (suspected) 2.76 standard rear axle ratio is probably more of an issue with off-line acceleration than the 2bbl vs 4bbl deal is. Only real power increase with the 4bbl is probably over about 3000rpm (about 85mph on the highway). NONE of the older cars will be "rockets" in performance, BUT they are usually pretty decent in the power area, for what they are.

You can make sure the tuning is correct, even with a bit of tweaking with a few more degrees of base timing, first. The 2bbls which Chrysler used on the 383s had the same size throttle bores as did the primaries on the 4bbls, so only improvement will be at higher rpms. 4bbls almost always had factory dual exhaust, too. By '68, the 383 2bbls had the same 256/260 cam that the 4bbls did.

Doing a 4bbl upgrade on a 383 is pretty easy. Don't need to remove the distributor or drain the cooling system, but still have to change some of the carb linkage and kickdown linkage items to 4bbl items, or modify them. Several little details to deal with.

For the time being, probably best to get the car running reliably and well. Learn about it, understand it, and appreciate it for what it is. THEN consider what you might want to do and start to accumulate parts for such.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67

 

[mrfury68]

My ‘68 Fury III still runs the 2 bbl carb. on the stock 383. It fires right up, idles smooth and has more than enough power for the driving I do. Several years ago I put on dual exhaust. I noticed a.nice improvement right off the bat. A veteran Chrysler mechanic told me that was a wise choice as the engine was breathing so much better. Just my thoughts.

 

[NewportNeumann]

Thank you for the feedback. As for the problems I am experiencing:

Runs rough at idle. Have to crank for at least 20-30 seconds after sitting for 2-3 days. When I put my foot on the gas at higher speeds, I can feel a slight lurch/shudder kinda feel in the engine also when I replaced the spark plugs last weekend, found them to have a nice coat of oil.

 

[rapidtrans]

Thank you for the feedback. As for the problems I am experiencing:

Runs rough at idle. Have to crank for at least 20-30 seconds after sitting for 2-3 days. When I put my foot on the gas at higher speeds, I can feel a slight lurch/shudder kinda feel in the engine also when I replaced the spark plugs last weekend, found them to have a nice coat of oil.

All the symptoms of our wonderful ethanol infused gas in a car that sits a lot.
Tried any fuel additives to counteract the ethanol?

 

[NewportNeumann]

I have not. Think that’s the only issue though?

 

[CBODY67]

What spark plugs did you install? Just curious as to the "heat range" of them. What about the ignition points and base timing settings? How many miles on the engine?

Just curious,
CBODY67

 

[swisherred]

I had the same issues....tuned to book specs and ran like crap...increased the timing, changed heat ranges on the plugs, went to electronic ignition...finally premium gas or ethanol free and it runs pretty decent....but never could get over the long cranks after sitting.

ethanol sucks...

 

[67ragtop]

stromburg 2 barrel

 

[67ragtop]

ww2

 

[Grannys67]

<- Carter BBD 2barrel also
I stocked up on some rebuild kits from Carburetor kits, parts and manuals by The Carburetor Docotr,
and have rebuilt it 2 or three times in the past 8 or so years - very easy

 

[polara66hardtop]

strombergs hesitated in 1971! the accelerator pumps are very sensitive to any kind of dirt or Foriegn objects. Duals are a good idea. single exhaust 383 engines then would tend to burn the exhaust valves passenger side #4 an 6. I did mine twice in 1972 at 40k and again at 80k.( I am old) I drove a 66 Polara from 1971 to 1976. 80k miles in 5 years. great car other than that. I have a 66 polara today with 25k actual miles, and it lopes just like my first one at an Idle.it has Been doing it 20 years, I gotta get a valve job some day!

 

[67ragtop]

sorry wwc thats what i have on my 383 . runs very nice